Kinner Kailash — Gateway to liberation

Tejaswi Lohumi

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One of the five famous abodes of Lord Shiva, the 6,050 m Kinner Kailash is an extraordinary mountain symbolising the confluence of two major religious faiths of the tribal regions of Himachal Pradesh. The scared mountain is revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike. Every year the devout undertake the arduous climb to pay obeisance to the natural lingam, an imposing 79-foot vertical monolith that stands out majestically.

Rising precipitously from the banks of the Sutlej, the commanding mountain encompasses narrow valleys, deep gorges and captivating alpine pastures. The Shivlingam atop the mountain, formed by a rocky cliff, is a manifestation of the supreme power and a hallowed place of worship for the believers. It is believed to be the place where Lord Shiva stays for his annual winter sojourn At times even experienced climbers struggle to reach the top but the devout somehow keep moving, as if under a charm, oblivious of the hazardous terrain and the difficulty of the task at hand. The spiritual aura of the abode of Lord Shiva and the unflinching belief of the devotees elevates their spirits impelling them to undertake the daunting pilgrimage year after year.

While Kailash Mansorovar in Tibet is the most famous of the five, Kinner Kailash is perhaps the toughest to reach. The Shrikhand Mahadev in Kullu and Manimahesh Kailash in Chamba fall in Himachal, while Adi Kailash, popularly known as Chhota Kailash, is in the Himalayan range of the Kumaun region. The Hindus believe that undertaking pilgrimages to these five abodes of Shiva help to achieve salvation.

The sacred lingam is visible from afar. As the sun traverses the azure skies of Kinnaur, dancing rays weave magic on the awe-inspiring mountains overlooking the Satjul valley. The shifting sunlight has a remarkable effect on Kinner Kailash, as it appears to change colours through the day, making it unique in every sense. The  mesmerising display of varied colours  along with floating clouds that frequently envelop the mountain range, add to the aesthetic appeal of the rugged and rocky landscape. The trek can be undertaken from the end of May to September depending on the weather conditions. While the adventure seekers prefer the earlier part of the season, the pilgrims prefer the holy month of Sawan which is dedicated to the worship of Shiva.

The trek to the holy mountain takes off from the left bank of the Sutlej. The river can be crossed either by using an improvised ropeway or by taking a longer route, using a bridge located a few kilometres downstream. Once on the left bank, one has to gear up for a long and strenuous climb all the way up to the sacred monolith. The climb begins from Tangling village and is a draining affair right from the start, with about seven or eight hours of continuous ascent up to the base camp.

There are no easy stretches on the way and the gradient is relentlessly steep. Although the uphill journey is not an easy one, the ever-changing but spectacular views that keep unfolding more than make up for the physical toil. As the altitude increases, the flora and fauna changes, dense forests gradually make way for relatively sparse bushy vegetation, marking the end of the tree line. Thereafter, the high-altitude flowering plants and lush green meadows with protruding rocks greet the trekkers. Brahma Kamal, the most revered plant of high altitude of the Himalayas is found at places en route beyond 13,000 ft. The plant with the botanical name Saussurea Obvallata grows naturally in the area. It is known for its medicinal properties, besides its religious significance.

As the climb becomes steeper, the terrain is dominated more and more by rocks and only some grassland are visible in patches. The fascinating landscape has a deep impact on the mind, virtually pushing the climber into a state of trance. The eerie sound of the gushing winds kissing the rocks literally provides for a “top of the world” feeling. 

The experience becomes all the more real when climbers reach Ganesh Park, the site of the base camp, where a natural cave welcomes the tired and exhausted pilgrims. Visible at a short distance is an extremely precipitous patch of the trail to be followed, providing a glimpse of the daunting climb ahead. Many a time the faint-hearted armatures, unable to conquer their fear of heights, turn back, just shy of the base camp. Perhaps the most comforting part of the ascent up to Ganesh Park is a well-marked trail which eventually disappears into a maze of rocks and boulders.

“I experienced vertigo after I took a few steps on the narrow pathway on a steep rocky terrain. It was a frightening experience at such dizzy heights and I decided to return,” says Rahul, a first-timer from Shimla. There are many like him who are forced to give up halfway.

The base camp presents an aerial view of the district headquarters “Reckong Peo” and the picturesque “Kalpa” village on the face on the mountain across the valley. The scale of the climb can be gauged from the fact that Reckong Peo, as seen from Ganesh Park, appears to be at a significantly lower altitude. The terrain from the base camp transforms into a confusing yet a beautiful high-altitude valley, skirted by steep rocky peaks on both sides. First-time visitors usually have a difficult time digesting the view accompanied by the violent and explosive sound of avalanches and falling rocks that can be heard at a distance every once in a while.

Without the guidance of someone familiar with the region, the trek can easily become a guessing game, a dangerous and risky proposition in a hostile terrain. There is an ethereal feel to the setting but it can surely put to test the navigation and mountaineering skills of the climbers to test, as locating the holy rock can more often than not become a puzzle. 

The Parvati Kund, a sacred water body en route to the lingam, is an assurance to the pilgrims that they are on the right path. However, the trail takes on a whole different level from thereon, as trekkers have to cover an almost vertical climb to reach the destination.

Those who manage to reach the top, risking life and limb, braving extreme weather conditions, are catapulted into a different reality altogether that cannot be truly be expressed in words. Only a blessed few get to experience the magical embrace of the eternal Kinner Kailash.

(The writer is a software engineer, a musician and a passionate trekker)