Historical Indian jewels glitter globally

Historical Indian jewels are experiencing a resurgence in popularity and interest. These relics of bygone royalty reflect not only the identity of their wearers but also the craftsmanship of their times. They underscore an expanding narrative — celebrating stories, partnerships that span generations, and global appeal. This renaissance can be seen not only in museums and on runways but also at auction houses, where pieces such as Golconda diamond jewellery and suites created in collaboration with Indian royalty are increasingly sought after by collectors.

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India’s jewellery has never been mere ornamentation — it has symbolised power, protection, and artistry. This legacy spans from the opulence of jadau created by Mughal rulers, to the extravagance of the maharajas, to the temple jewellery of South Indian dynasties. A stunning example is the rare diamond, ruby, pearl, and enamel guluband sold by AstaGuru Auction House in 2021.

The Mughal era, defined by emperors such as Shah Jahan and Jahangir, was marked by extensive patronage of arts and crafts. They commissioned and wore regal kundan-enamelled sets, intricate sarpechs, necklaces, daggers, and brooches.

In later years, royals like Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala collaborated with iconic Western jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Chaumet to create breathtaking pieces. These treasures showcased the grandeur of Indian tradition fused with Western craftsmanship and quality. One of the most significant pieces from these collaborations was the 1928 Patiala Necklace, crafted with over 2,900 diamonds, Burmese rubies, and a 234-carat yellow De Beers diamond. Some of these creations have even been spotted on celebrities at the Met Gala, further fuelling curiosity and admiration for Indian jewellery.

This cross-cultural exchange led to a unique melding of Western and Indian aesthetics, resulting in exceptional works such as the Art Deco bajubands featured in our jewellery auction. The rare pair, set with old-cut diamonds and fine calibre-cut natural Burmese rubies in a classic Art Deco chevron design, exemplifies the blend of Indian tradition and Western design.

Jewellery collections such as that of the Nizams of Hyderabad are also seeing renewed interest. The Nizams amassed one of India’s most luxurious collections, comprising over 173 pieces from the 18th to 20th centuries, created with Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds, diamonds, and pearls. Notable pieces include the 184.75-carat Jacob Diamond and a 465-pearl Satlada necklace.

Global exhibitions have further ignited interest in Indian jewels. Institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the British Museum in London, and the Museum of Islamic Art in Doha have all showcased India’s rich jewellery traditions. Thousands visited the Victoria & Albert Museum’s ‘Maharaja: The Splendour of India’s Royal Courts’ exhibition, which displayed ornate jewellery worn by Indian royalty. The ongoing Cartier exhibition at the V&A also features pieces created for Indian royal families, highlighting the enduring impact of Indo-European collaborations. These exhibitions help educate the public on the cultural and historical significance of Indian jewels, elevating them beyond decorative luxury to the realm of world heritage.

As the global jewellery market becomes more inclusive and diverse, the world is rediscovering the depth and splendour of Indian jewels. No longer seen merely as exotic or ornate, these pieces are celebrated for their intricate craftsmanship, rich symbolism, and cultural importance. Their continued relevance is evident in their strong performance at international auctions, such as the record-breaking sale of the Al Thani Collection in 2019.

As this market expands, Indian regal jewels are re-emerging not just as visual marvels but as cultural ambassadors — bridging the subcontinent’s glorious past with its dynamic present and promising future.

— The writer is a jewellery specialist with auction house AstaGuru