On Delhi’s food trail with Pushpesh Pant’s ‘From the King’s Table to Street Food’

HISTORIAN and food critic Pushpesh Pant, in ‘From the King’s Table to Street Food’, embarks on an appetising voyage through the historical and cultural influences that define Delhi’s culinary landscape. This delectable trip starts in the Indraprastha of yore, makes its way to the Sultanate and Mughal periods, winds up in the British Raj, and comes to a skidding halt in the Delhi of today. Drawing from his own experience, memory, historical texts, and literary sources — fiction and non-fiction — the author also endeavours to understand the ingredients that go into the making of an asli Dilliwala. The book includes several recipes, representing Delhi’s culinary repertoire.

Though penned as a memoir, the book’s narrative is driven by past happenings and historical anecdotes. The author seamlessly ties up the chronologically placed chapters into a compelling read. The book introduces the reader to Pant’s early association with Delhi’s tasty treats and his relocation from Mukteshwar in 1965.

Pant references food mentions in the epic ‘Mahabharata’. Alongside tales of warring cousins, it also chronicles in some detail the celebrations, feasting and lavish royal banquets that included preparations with saffron from Kashmir and bamboo shoots from Pragjyotisha (Assam). Thanks to historical accounts that became available 11th century onwards and the well-researched historical fiction, the author dwells upon the establishment of public kitchens, Sufi khannaqah, and langar khaana. He borrows from Ibn Battuta and Amir Khusrau to showcase the dishes that travelled along the Silk Road, including the ubiquitous snack we now know as samosa. He tackles the many influences that resulted in Mughaliya (not to be confused with the latter-day Delhi invention Mughlai) cuisine in Akbar’s ‘Dastarkhan and its Legacy’. The arrival of early 19th century Europeans as soldiers of fortune, Company officials, and the eventual takeover by the British Empire added a whole new set of culinary habits.

Some of the most flavoursome and insightful bits of information, however, are tucked inside the chapter titled ‘Traders, Treasurers, Scribes and Administrators’. More so, as the significant role played by the Baniya, Kayastha, Punjabi and Khatri communities in the food history of Delhi, along with Kashmiris, Parsis and Christians, had long eluded us. The book highlights the food traditions of Bengal, Bihar, southern India, the Northeast, and those displaced by Partition. Many have since become legacy brands. And Pandara Road restaurants came to variously represent Lahori, Peshawari, Pindi and frontier foods.

Later chapters focus on urban planning. Development spawned new neighbourhoods, like the Asian Games Village, with culinary trends of their own. Diplomatic enclaves, tony residential areas, and corporate parks would set the ball rolling for posh eateries, specialty restaurants and chef-helmed concept restaurants.

Pant, an eyewitness with a ringside view of Delhi’s transformation, uses a conversational writing style to share his historical and culinary knowledge. The book is an effortless read, and despite the wealth of information tucked into its pages, it does not daunt. The author disclaims in the preface that this is neither academic in nature, nor a food guide. Yet, given his undeniable scholarship and inimitable storytelling skill, here is an enriching must-read for the naturally curious, knowledge-seekers, history buffs, and not least, food enthusiasts.