Cruise on Nile that banks on history

Geetu Vaid 

The deep aquamarine hues of the Nile have the mystique of the Egyptian culture mixed in them. This, coupled with the serenity all around, makes a cruise on the world’s longest river a memorable one. The calm waters of the mighty Nile can make one forget for a moment that this river has been defying an unforgiving desert for centuries and has cradled one of the world’s most advanced civilisations. Your Egyptian holiday will remain incomplete without a Nile cruise as it is on its stinging cold waters that one starts comprehending the mystery and charisma of the ancient Egyptian philosophy of life, its temples, tombs and traditions. The frequent stops along the way to visit heritage sites and temples of pagan gods along the river keep the connect with history palpable on this cruise making it refreshing as well as a refresher course in Egyptian history. Most of the tourist packages will offer personally-guided tours to ancient temples in Aswan, Edfu and Luxor. 

Riding the waters

The cruise boats lined along the jetties in Aswan are an assortment of new and antique ones, each with a fancy name. Be prepared to be spoilt with luxury -- sun deck, swimming pool, dining room, elaborate bar and cabins with glass windows. The food on the cruise is an elaborate spread of delicacies from different parts of the world as well as authentic Egyptian cuisine like Koshari, Mahshi and Konafa.

The ornate mini ships that can have three to four decks glide smoothly, so put all apprehensions of getting motion sickness at rest and savour the sights and sounds as the cities on the East Bank and fields on the West Bank pass by. The landscape is constantly changing as sugarcane and banana plantations seem to be running along on the West Bank, with mountains in the backdrop where one can see farmers in the fields. On the East Bank, one can find city skylines, brick houses and an occasional group of children trying to race with the boats. 

Some of the key stops on the cruise include: 

Aswan — the beginning

Aswan, the southernmost tip of Egypt is the most favoured spot to embark on a Nile cruise.  It is a bustling small town on the banks of the Nile, with a swish promenade separating the town from the river bank. The river front has a large number of cruise boats decorated with bright lights to attract tourists. There are also the feluccas or sail boats which can be tried to get an experience of how ancient Egyptians travelled on the river. Adding a visit to the Aswan High Dam, Lake Nasser provide a perfect start to the cruise garnished with history. The importance of Nile and its water can only be understood once it is put in the right perspective at the massive Lake Nasser, the backbone of the Egyptian economy. 

Philae temple

Philae temple is a living proof of the grit and determination of the people to save their rich heritage while keeping in step with modern ways of life. Located on Aglika Island, the temple, dedicated to goddess Isis, is around 2,500 years old. It is significant as it represents the crossroads of change in the Egyptian history. Its massive columns and pillars carry what historians call the last hieroglyphs written by ancient Egyptians. That’s so because the construction of this temple was started by last of the Egyptian pharaohs and his successor was from the Ptolemaic dynasty that came to rule the country from 305 BC. Apart from the stories of Isis, her husband God of the underworld Osiris, and their son the falcon god Horace, the whole structure assumes an aura of amazement as one realises that it has been moved block-by-block from its original site and reconstructed. Located in the middle of Nile, Philae was endangered after Aswan Low Dam was built in 1902 and was moved to higher ground under a UNESCO aided project in the 1960s. 

Kom Ombu and Edfu

A three-hour or so cruise from Aswan brings one to Kom Ombu. Kom Ombu temple is located on a bend in the Nile  where crocodiles used to surface to enjoy the sun. It is dedicated to two gods — Sobek, the crocodile god, and Haroeris, meaning Horus the Elder. Much like the two gods that it represents, the temple balances ancient Egyptian as well as the Roman influence in its structure. A museum with several mummies of crocodiles can creep you out though. Edfu, the next stop on the west bank, has a magnificent ancient temple dedicated to Falcon god Horace. The granite obelisks, massive statues of Ramses II are awesome in their magnitude and beauty. That these towering columns and statues were built between 237 and 57 BC by people who had no access to engineering and construction tech makes the whole experience amazing. This Ptolemaic temple was buried under sand for centuries but is still marvellously preserved, with its walls replete with scenes of the pharaohs seeking the blessing of eternals life from their gods. 

Luxor

Luxor (Thebes) has some of the largest and most striking temples whether it is the size or the intricacy of the hieroglyphs or relief work on the walls and columns. Karnak temple, which is about 4,000 years old is the one in which several rulers kept on adding new buildings and structures for over 2,000 years. Each nook, crevice, pillar and inscription signifies an important historical era in this amazing piece of architecture. 

Valley of the kings 

The tombs on the West Bank mountains that were created to house the mummified bodies of the pharaohs will leave you gasping in disbelief. Some of these are amazingly well preserved, with the paintings on the walls retaining their original colours. The valley so far has 63 tombs and chambers, with the latest chamber and tomb entrances being discovered as recently as 2008. The excavation work in the valley is still in progress. 

How much one will enjoy the mystery and magic of this land of pyramids depends on how much you allow it to come to you. If you let it consume you with its philosophy, structures, people and history, then you will see logic and the will that made such structures a reality. Nile, too, will come to symbolise human life. All human beings are like the mighty Nile flowing defiantly in the midst of the desert of difficulties of life, bound by an East Bank signifying the present and West Bank signifying the end of life, and carrying the hope of resurrection in its bosom. Go enjoy a cruise to understand life! 

Many Choices

While one can be spoilt for choices when it comes to choosing a river cruise, one of the most popular ones is from Aswan to Luxor. In case pressed for time, take the one-way for three days. For a more relaxed itinerary, take Aswan-Luxor-Aswan, 5 or 7-day route. There is also a 14-day cruise from Aswan to Cairo. The cost depends on the number of days as well as the ship chosen. Be prepared to shell out between Rs30,000 and Rs2lakh-plus. There are some antique ships almost 100 years old, like the one in which Agatha Christie had travelled and got inspiration for her famous Death on the Nile mystery.

How to reach

Aswan is the starting point for most river cruises. One can reach here from Cairo after an almost 1 hour 40 minute flight. From Aswan, international Airport to the river jetty will take another hour.

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