Tailored legacy: Strap: Tarun Tahiliani marks 30 years with a majestic bridal ode at ICW 2025

Tarun Tahiliani, one of India’s most celebrated designers, marked three decades in fashion with a grand return to the runway at the Hyundai India Couture Week (ICW) 2025. His latest showcase, titled Quintessence, was a regal celebration of Indian heritage reimagined through a modern, personal lens.Presented at The Oberoi in the capital, the show combined intricate craftsmanship, refined silhouettes and a mood of opulence, all hallmarks of Tahiliani’s signature “India Modern” aesthetic.

Modern take on Indian bridal couture

‘Quintessence’ offered a fresh perspective on bridalwear, blending time-honoured techniques with contemporary structures. The collection unfolded in a palette of ivories, antique golds, deep reds and romantic pastels — each look more lavish and meticulously crafted than the last.

A standout was a blush-toned saree adorned with 3D floral embroidery, paired with a corset-style blouse that offered a balance of delicacy and edge. Another featured a muted grey lehenga worn with a cropped blouse and a long, heavily embellished jacket, layering elegance with innovation.

Menswear stood equally strong, with sharply tailored sherwanis and bandhgalas rendered in rich fabrics and tonal embroidery, most notably, a sleek black sherwani that radiated understated royalty.

Every ensemble in the collection struck a deliberate harmony between weightless construction and visual richness, speaking to Tahiliani’s continued evolution as a designer who respects heritage while constantly reinterpreting it.

Made in India: a nostalgic finale

The show culminated in a nostalgic, celebratory finale as models returned to the runway to the iconic 1995 pop anthem ‘Made in India’ by Alisha Chinai. The track, which became a cultural phenomenon in its time, perfectly captured the spirit of ‘Quintessence’ — confident, proud and unapologetically Indian.

“It’s a great track,” said Tahiliani after the show. “It’s a visceral process... I wanted to end on something that was core to who we are. That line — ‘Japan se Russia’ — it’s cheeky, fun and deeply relevant. We are who we are and we should embrace that.”

From Wharton to ramp

Reflecting on his 30-year journey, Tahiliani spoke candidly about his unconventional foray into fashion, which began after completing his business degree at the Wharton School in the United States.

“I just dove into it. I was hungry to learn — embroidery, tailoring, everything. I couldn’t be Dior or Galliano. I had to become my own voice,” he said. “That’s where the fun is. That’s the journey.”

He recalled the now-iconic moment when he broke the news to his father, Admiral R H Tahiliani (former Chief of Naval Staff and governor of Sikkim) that he planned to become a designer.

“My father said, ‘I sent you to Wharton and you want to be a tailor?’” he recounted with a smile. “Later, he’d joke that everyone calls him ‘Tarun Tahiliani’s father’. I told him, ‘Just tell them you’re the dad of a tailor.’ He didn’t find it funny, but I thought it was cute.”