Bridal couture for 2020

The marriage season is almost here. Here’s looking at what design trends are set to rock the wedding ensemble this year

Gurnaaz Kaur

It’s the age of glitz and glamour, dreams and fairytales — the most defining point of reference being the bold, independent and experimental millennial bride. Her choice of wedding ensemble reflects her personality. She pays attention to the tiniest of detail and decides how she looks on the D-day. Here’s a quick check on what’s going to rule the Indian bridal couture in the upcoming wedding season.

Reinventing the saree: Shyamal and Bhumika

The renaissance muse: Shyamal and Bhumika

Celebrity designer duo Shyamal and Bhumika is known to revive India’s precious crafts and create a couture collection relevant to modern day sensibilities. This year, they say, “In this new decade, we’re digging into our archives and the history of Indian crafts. For us, 2020 begins with revival as we put out a capsule collection entirely focusing on the saree. The trend we’re focusing on, rather we’re creating, is reviving and reinventing this garment and presenting it to the modern Indian woman.”

Box (Designer’s cut)

Motifs from architecture

This time around they have played with embroidery threads to create unique motifs that draw inspiration from ceiling frescoes and facades from 15th century paintings and architecture, besides vintage European tapestry and decorative pillars from the Mughal era. “We have used a mix of material — silk threads, zari, velvet appliqués, crystal accents, tulle, quilted textures, layered embroideries, sequin, etc. to create interesting textures.”

Bespoke blouses/Blouse gets the twist

Extravagant cuts, necklines and fancy sleeves narrate the story of the modern bride. “For the elegant and sophisticated new-age bride, we’ve played with the blouse. We have created modern silhouettes with puff sleeves, off-shoulder blouses, bell-sleeves and cap sleeves. These lend a contemporary twist to the classic saree silhouette,” say Shyamal and Bhumika.

Mystic dream: Varun Bahl

It’s a grand grand world/Grandeur’s the word/Delicate maximalism/ Majestic

The couturier of flowers, Varun Bahl, says this is the year of maximalism. His latest collection, The Dancing Paisley, says the couturier “is grander than ever. The collection draws inspiration from the Garden of Paradise and employs delicate maximalism to tell a story.

We’ve loved using the traditional Indian paisley and juxtaposing it with our signature floral motifs featuring minimal intricate embroidery, brokenkalis, incomplete motifs depicting the paradoxical beauty. The embroidery techniques employed use traditional gold zari,dabka, metal sequins combined with strong and differentiating sumptuous textures, rich shading, metallic accents that together create a visual delight.”

Box (Designer’s cut)

A delicate balance

The wedding wear creates a balance between traditional ensemble and more contemporary, flowing silhouettes, says Varun. “The cape and lehenga set, for instance, has been created for the bride who wants to celebrate, without being held back by the heaviness of her garment. For those going for traditional attire, we have used fabrics like velvet and silk raw to give a majestic look.”

Ruffles and frills

Layers, feathers, frills, sequin are the buzzword. From international runways to an amalgamation with Indian craft, the trend is for keeps. “Frill dupattas, flared pants and capes are all the rage, especially for those who want to add edge and drama to their outfits.”

Futuristic fashion: Amit Aggarwal

Known for introducing a new language of craftsmanship, this year’s bridal couture for Amit Aggarwal is eclectic. “The new age bride is quite experimental and believes in customising the outfit. The search does not end with the prettiest lehenga at a designer store. She understands the newness, of what couture could mean and bring out something very original, true to their inherent aesthetics and liking.”

Glam it up with metal

The trends ruling this season, according to Amit, are glam, bold accents of metallic colours. “Overall, a great a fit, a bodycon kind of outfit but keeping it grand and opulent with layers and volume is the highpoint for this season. However, the biggest trend is the evolution of the sareee drape or the drape per say; mixing it up with contemporary shapes, ideas and structuring details.”

Graphics rule the fabric

Amit is associated with engineering innovative designs. Instead of conventional zardosi and metal yarns, he is known to use recycled polymer stripes to create abstract patterns on tulle lace, organza. And this time again, the designer suggests go graphic. “In embroideries, the traditional, heavy workmanship of embroideries through zardozi, metal wire work is a passé. The new-age brides want to feel light and airy, probably effervescent on their special day. Weighing their ensemble down with tons and tons of embroidery and workmanship is an outdated idea.”

Box 1:

Check the colour palette

Shyamal and Bhumika:A range of pastel colours, juxtaposed with rich and lavish tones of emerald, royal blue, maroon and aubergine. Red is an all-time favourite but powder pink and ivory are some colours that brides are open to wearing on their special day.

Varun Bahl: The colour palette this time is ethereal. An eclectic mix of ivory, gold, coral and hints of mint green. The richer colours of traditional reds, mustard and tones of yellow are forever.

Amit Aggarwal: A great blend of emerald, teal, petrol with a very electric blue, almost dissecting the peacock colours but at the same time classic in terms of its natural metallic colours like gold, silver or even rose gold and ivory for that matter.

Box 2:One for each day

S&B:A pastel-coloured lehenga for the mehndi with a ruffled blouse. An ivory lehenga for the sangeet and an emerald green lehenga with a peach dupatta for the wedding.

Varun Bahl:For a mehndi, which is usually a day time affair, a cape and lehenga set in tones of mustard or mint green would be ideal. For a sangeet or cocktail, the ease to move freely and dance is best managed with a lehenga. Fabrics like velvet, in rich tones are a great option. For a reception, there’s nothing like a classic saree. For new-age brides, the silhouette can be dramatised with sensual cholis.

Amit Aggarwal: Mehndi would be a stunning gown in pastel with an accent of a bright colour, in a light and breezy fabric. Cocktail should be high on glam — something that is very close to your body but also flairs out. Wedding would be a beautiful hand-done technique, an interesting new silhouette instead of just the six kali or eight kali lehenga. Here, keep the blouse or upper exciting. Replace the dupatta with something as contemporary as the modern cape that doubles up as dupatta.

Box 3: Jewel me up

Chokers are best suited for long necks. Go for chandbalis with a heavy outfit and leave then neck bare. Shararas paired with passas look stunning as well. Long earrings do justice in adding length to your face.

Box 4: Light and luscious

Light make up for a day time function, pastel and light earthy tones for eye shadow work really well. For a sangeet and cocktail, you can never go wrong with a smoky eye or a bold lip.