Pushpesh Pant
We live in highly competitive times where even claims about invention of tried and tested recipes like good old butter chicken get contested in court. The intellectual property, however, is worth contesting as the desi murgh makhni has reached distant shores and conquered palates all over the globe. We were reminded of all this when we encountered an attractive fusion tasting menu at Chapter 3 of Farage at Radisson Blu in Greater Noida. The centre of culinary gravity seems to be shifting slowly but steadily from central and south Delhi to the periphery in NCR.
Farage is headed by Chef Anuj Kapoor, who creates tasting menus that ‘fuse’ flavours and cooking techniques from different lands to tickle the jaded palates of his guests. His recent tasting menu is an array of Indo-Japanese beauties that are irresistible. India and Japan have had friendly relations for millennia and share many things in common. But this menu has recreated a lesser-known variety of Japanese culinary repertoire that follows a minimalist philosophy and lets the natural colours and flavours work their magic. Simplicity and subtlety are the name of the game. The chef has succeeded in showcasing that different culinary streams can mingle harmoniously. Chicken katsu brings together aromatic jasmine rice with makhani gravy that brilliantly compliments bread-crumbed chicken thighs. Chettinad crushed potatoes balance the plate very well.
The harmony of flavours continues even in plating. Nothing is superfluous like carefully chosen accompaniments such as skewers of tofu flavoured with a hint of bhut jolakia and succulent asparagus shoots.
Till the courts pronounce their judgment, we are quite content enjoying makhni gravy with bread-crumbed thighs and not tandoori murgh tikka. You may also substitute asparagus with tender beans and chicken with paneer. And don’t let daikon deter you. It’s nothing but our own healthy wholesome mooli (radish) for which the Japanese too have a penchant.
And don’t think that bread-crumbed chicken is an alien bird in the Land of the Rising Sun. Ever since the Japanese embarked on an accelerated modernisation campaign, they have acquired a taste for many such dishes. Post World War-II years, this process has continued. Indian curry shops in Japan offer mouth-watering renderings of Indian theme.
CHICKEN KATSU WITH MAKHNI GRAVY
Chicken thigh (boneless) 220 gm (2 pieces)
For marination
Hung curd 80 gm
Kashmiri red chilli powder 5 gm/1 tsp
Garam masala 5 gm/1 tsp
Mustard oil 30 ml/2 tbsp
Kasuri methi (toasted) ½ tsp
Salt To taste
Method (Preparing chicken thighs)
Wash, pat dry and trim the chicken thighs to remove excess fat, bone fragments, cartilages, etc. To prepare the marinade, mix all ingredients for marination in a bowl and apply evenly on the chicken thighs. Marinate for at least 2 hours. Toss the marinated chicken thighs in bread crumbs. In a pan, fry on medium-low flame till golden brown and cooked through.
For makhni gravy
Tomatoes 1 kg
Green cardamoms 3
Coriander 8-10 stems
Cashewnuts (broken) 100 gm
Ginger-garlic paste 30 gm/2 tbsp
Butter 60 gm/4 tbsp
Fresh cream 30 ml/2 tbsp
Kasuri methi 2 gm/1/2 tsp
Garam masala powder 8 gm/1-1/2 tsp
Kashmiri red chilli powder 5 gm/1 tsp
Jeera powder 5 gm/1 tsp
Brown sugar (optional) 3 gm/1/2 tsp
Coriander powder 1 tsp
Salt To taste
Japanese panko or any bread crumbs
Method (for gravy)
Boil tomatoes with cardamoms, cashews and coriander stems. Strain and reserve the water. Discard coriander stems. Puree boiled tomatoes and cashews and strain. Melt butter, add ginger-garlic paste, sauté and then add coriander powder. Now add the tomato puree. Add other spices, salt, and sugar, if you are using. Cook for a few minutes, stirring regularly. Finish with toasted hand-crushed kasuri methi and cream. Serve chicken thighs with pickled daikon (radish) slices, makhni gravy and jasmine rice.
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