Dum aloo, the easy way

DUM cooking is one of the most talked about and prized cooking techniques on the Indian subcontinent. Food historians believe that this style of extremely slow cooking in a tightly sealed pot, at times underground, originated in Persia and was refined and popularised in Awadh during the reign of the epicurean nawabs.

If food lore is to be believed, dum-pukht pulao was a one-dish meal cooked for the labourers working on, perhaps, the first of its kind food-for-work programme when a famine stalked the countryside. The kind-hearted nawab commissioned the construction of the Bada Imambada to ensure that none of his poor subjects should face starvation. He saw to it that the work went on nonstop. Whatever was constructed during the day was reduced to rubble in the nightshift. There is, perhaps, more than a touch of fantasy and exaggeration in this tale, but the term now bears the imprint of Awadh.

Usually, dum-pukht delicacies are non-vegetarian — do pyaza, qorma and salan. However, rare exception is made in the case of potato. Perhaps potato was still an exotic ingredient when it found its way into Nawab Wazid Ali Shah’s kitchen and the Calcutta biryani. There are many variations of aloo dum — Kashmiri, Bengali, Banarasi and Jaipuri. Most recipes are time consuming.

This is the reason why we have fallen in love with the pressure-cooked dum aloo that requires patience and some skill. The pressure cooker does reduce the cooking time, but this process is repeated three to four times in this delicacy. The curried dish is equally enjoyable with rice, roti, parantha and poori. Do try it at the earliest. Great to revive body, mind and soul in the soggy monsoon season.

DUM ALOO

Ingredients

Potatoes (large, peeled and quartered, not boiled) 500 gm

Tomatoes (ripe, blanched and pureed) 250 gm

Onions (peeled and sliced fine) 250 gm

Ginger-garlic paste 1 tbsp

Curd (Thick, whisked) 1/2 cup

Bay leaves 2

Brown cardamom 2

Cloves 6-8

Black peppercorns 1 tbsp

Cinnamon stick 1x2 inch piece

Khus khus (poppy seeds) 1 tbsp

Almonds (soaked in warm water for 30 minutes) 10-12

Cashew nuts (soaked in warm water for 30 minutes) 10-15

Coriander powder 2 tsp

Cumin powder 1 tsp

Red chilli powder 1 tsp

Turmeric powder 1/2 tsp

Garam masala 1tsp

Sugar 1/2 cup

Salt To taste

Ghee 1 cup

Oil 1/4 cup

For garnish

Green chillies (washed, deseeded and slit lengthwise) 2

Fresh coriander leaves (washed and chopped) 1 sprig

Fresh mint leaves (washed and chopped) 1 sprig

Kasuri methi (optional) 1 tsp

Lemon juice (optional) 1 tsp

METHOD

— Dry roast all the whole spices till they release their aroma. When cool, grind to a coarse powder and keep aside. Grind the khus khus, soaked almonds and cashew nuts separately to a smooth paste.

— Heat oil in a pressure cooker, add sliced onions and tomato puree and cook till one whistle. Let the pressure come down on its own. Open the cooker, stir well, add curd, put the lid back and pressure cook for one more whistle. Again, let the pressure come down on its own, open and stir. Now add the poppy seeds, almond, cashew paste. Stir-fry for a minute, then add all the powdered spices (except the garam masala) and salt mixed with a little water. Continue stir-frying till the fat separates. Now add sugar and the potatoes, then add half a cup of water, mix well, and pressure cook till one whistle. Switch off the flame and let the pressure come down on its own. Uncover, check seasoning, sprinkle lemon juice if using. Add 1/2 cup of boiling water if you prefer a thinner gravy.

— Sprinkle garam masala on top and garnish with freshly-chopped coriander and mint leaves and green chillies. Crumble the kasoori methi (if using) all over just before serving.