Food Talk: ‘Dahi bada’ from Odisha

‘DAHI BADA’ is indeed a very special dish. It is a beloved of our compatriots in different regions. In Punjab, it is popular as ‘dahi bhalla’ and is shaped slightly differently from the other variations. The ‘tair vada’ in southern India has a different texture and flavour. It is served with slightly sweetened ‘dahi’ and a garnish of crispy ‘boondi’. In the Hindi heartland, ‘dahi bada’ is adorned with dark brown sweet and sour ‘sonth’, along with red and green chutneys. Sprinkled with freshly roasted and ground cumin seeds, it is more filling than other ‘chaat’ nibbles. But let us not digress.

What intrigued us during a visit to Odisha sometime back was a combo dish, ‘dahi bada’ with ‘aloo dum’. Now, it is well known that ‘aloo dum’ in our land has as many regional variations as ‘dahi bada’. But, we were curious to find out how the two were playing a culinary duet here.

Abhay, one of my old students who was then posted in Cuttack as a senior police officer, was keen that we try out the stuff sold by Raghu and Ishwar, two competing masters of this popular street food. The two gentlemen opened ‘shop’ in the morning. Two canisters containing ‘aloo dum’ and ‘dahi bada’ were carefully balanced on their bicycles. When a customer came, ‘dahi bada’ was carefully placed in a dona, a cup made with sal leaves. A generous spoonful of ‘aloo dum’ gravy was poured with two-three potato cubes. The garnish comprised finely chopped green chilli, coriander leaves and a spoonful of ‘bhujiya’. Some patrons preferred finely chopped onion to be added. The ‘aloo dum’ tasted very different from the Bengali ‘hing diye aloo dum’ that is paired with ‘luchi’ or ‘Radha ballabhi’. We were told by our Odiya friends that their ‘dahi bada’ without the ‘aloo dum’ has traditionally been served for many centuries as part of the Chhappan Bhog at the Shri Jagannath Dham at Puri.

We think that this delicacy, fit for the gods and a staple for the commoners, should be tried out by our readers in the month of Savan when many people eschew meat and fish. The dish has even found its way as a starter in fine dining restaurants serving ‘ethnic’ food. If you like a satvik recipe, all you have to do is to keep out the onions and garlic paste. A pinch of hing, a few curry leaves and some mustard seeds in the tempering will do the trick.

DAHI BADA

INGREDIENTS

FOR BADA

Maida 1 cup

Sooji 2 tbsp

Dahi (for batter) 1 cup

Dahi (diluted with water to buttermilk consistency for soaking the bada) 1 cup

Baking soda 1 tsp

Ghee 1/4 cup

Salt To taste

Water 2 cups

Ginger paste 1 tsp

Black rock salt 1/4 tsp

Oil For frying

FOR ALOO DUM

Parboiled potatoes (medium, peeled, cubed) 3

Tomatoes (finely chopped) 1 cup

Hing A large pinch

Kashmiri red chilli powder 1 tsp

Red chilli powder 1/2 tsp

Turmeric powder 1/2 tsp

Cumin powder 1 tsp

Coriander powder 1.5 tsp

Garam masala 1/2 tsp

Black rock salt 1/4 tsp

Mustard oil 1/3 cup

Salt To taste

TEMPERING

Whole dried red chillies 2

Green chillies 2

Curry leaves 10-12

Mustard seeds 1/2 tsp

Urad dal 1/2 tsp

Whole cumin seeds 1/2 tsp

Ghee 2 tbsp

FOR GARNISH

Bhujiya 1/3 cup

Fresh coriander/mint leaves (finely chopped) 2 tbsp

METHOD

• Soak the urad dal overnight and grind it to a paste. Add sooji and baking soda to it. Transfer to a bowl. Add dahi and ghee. Knead with a gentle hand, adding water in stages as required to obtain an elastic dough. Keep aside for 30 minutes to rise.
• Add salt and whisk with a hand whisk till the dough turns into a light and fluffy batter. Scoop into small pieces of even size. Shape into ‘badas’, punching a hole in the middle with your thumb. Heat oil in a pan; when it reaches smoking point, gently lower the ‘bada’ into it. Reduce the heat to medium and fry the ‘bada’, turning it over once or twice till these are evenly golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drop immediately into a bowl of cold water to drain access oil and soften the ‘bada’. Press gently before placing it in dahi diluted with water.
• For aloo dum: Heat oil in a pan. Add hing. When it dissolves, put in the cumin seeds. As these crackle, add the powdered spices (except garam masala) mixed with 1/4 cup of water. Stir fry for a minute. Add the tomatoes. Cover and cook, adding a little water till the tomatoes are mushy. Add the potatoes and add another cup of water. Bring to boil and cook covered for 15 minutes. Sprinkle the garam masala. Adjust the seasoning and temper with curry leaves, mustard seeds, whole red and green chillies. Add bhujiya, peanuts, etc, on top.