Laying out the Iftaar spread
Pushpesh Pant
The holy month of Ramzan finds the faithful testing their self-discipline via roze, the day-long ritual fasts. The fast is ritually ‘opened’ after the namaz at sunset. Traditionally, iftaar used to be a simple meal, marking the end of fasting. The thirsty body could be rehydrated with sherbet and a variety of nourishing snacks would follow the traditional fast opener, a date (khajoor). Almost everyone considers the date essential as it is believed that the Prophet himself broke his fast with this fruit of the desert. Much has changed since.
In recent years, iftaar has been transformed into a joyous party where Muslims share myriad delicacies with family and friends, many of them non-Muslims. Politicians trying to endear themselves to the Muslim voters in their constituencies threw lavish iftaar parties that provided a wonderful opportunity for photo-ops and the public celebration of diversity.
It is only since 2014, with the BJP’s dramatic rise to power, that politicians in different parties have seized to be as enthusiastic about iftaar. But let us forget the opportunistic politicians; iftaar continues to be a joyous celebration, an occasion to share what we have with all we care for.
The iftaar spread presents a mix of traditional classics and local delicacies in different regions of this vast and varied land. For instance, in Hyderabad in Deccan, it is haleem that is greatly valued. This porridge-like blend of well-pounded meat, wheat and lentils, enriched with ghee and a touch of jaggery, served with an assortment of condiments, is considered just what is required to build stamina for month-long fasting. In Bhopal and Rampur, haleem finds a prominent place. But truth be told, iftaar is not the time to fill the belly. It is an opportunity to nibble at the variety of snacks representing different tempting colours, flavours and textures that have been given a deliberate miss during the day-long fast.
Another misconception that should be gotten rid of is that iftaar is all about kebabs, koftas and kormas. All who have fasted know that when you break a fast, you should resist gluttony and wisely consume something light. Meaty fare is considered heavy and hard to digest. There are a whole lot of vegetarian options that help us to proceed gently into that night. One dish that finds a place in almost all iftaars is chane ki dal ki chaat. Rakhshanda Jalil, historian, author and chronicler of Islamic culture, points out that this particular dish is seldom encountered outside of Ramzan. Split Bengal gram is soaked overnight and then boiled lightly. The lentils, not mushy but retaining a bite, are served mixed with lots of finely diced tomatoes, onions, green chillies and generously drenched with lemon juice. Freshly roasted and coarsely ground cumin seed powder is sprinkled on top (chaat masala is strictly taboo).
Sometimes, chana chaat is also prepared with black gram. Other vegetarian goodies are aloo-kachaloo ki chaat that is assembled with parboiled potatoes draped with dahi and spiked up with both sweet and sour chutneys, roasted shakarkandi, dahi vada and pakora.
Let us not give you the impression that meat is eschewed. Dainty samosas filled with mutton mince, shaami kebab and murg tangri are relished equally. We have had a most delectable, whole leg of mutton that provided a generous supply of flavourful morsels for the guests at an iftaar hosted by Atiyaji, our publisher friend who hails from Jaunpur that was once capital of the Sharki sultanate. Her husband, Prof Irfan Habib, historian of science and biographer of Bhagat Singh and Maulana Azad, belongs to Meerut. No iftaar spread in their house is complete without seekh kebabs, chargrilled on skewers by kebabchis from his hometown.
The point to remember is that the iftaar — eating together, enjoying a convivial meal — has nothing to do with the richness or number of dishes. It is the warmth of the hospitality that matters most. Sweetness is spread by sheer khurma and halwas.
No iftaar can dispense with thirst-quenching sherbets. The most popular across the sub-continent during Ramzan is Roohafza, the ruby red revitalising fruit and vegetable-based syrup, originally marketed by the legendary Hamdard Dawakhana in Old Delhi at the turn of the last century. A spoonful added to the shikanji, lassi or milk shake elevates them to another level. Sattu ka sherbet and coconut water laced with ginger and lime, along with traditional sherbets of bael and aam ka panna continue to be popular. These days, bottled concentrates of thandai and falsa come to the rescue of the host who is pressed for time. However, it is believed that preparing the iftaar meal painstakingly and serving it with love and tender care to the guests is as meritorious as fasting. Iftaar over, one can get busy preparing the main meal, sehri, which has to be consumed at the crack of dawn before another day’s fast begins.
