Standing the test of time

Though much of the original structure of the city had changed in the period between 1628 and 1765 due to the Mughal invasion and then again at the time of Partition due to large-scale burning of buildings, the street structure and nomenclature, and to a limited extent the old architecture, too, has managed to survive till date. Apart from these, the Ambarsariyas (as they are colloquially known) still hold on to their old way of life and business.

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Shopkeepers sitting on ground with white sheets spread underneath and a heap of ledgers besides them is a common sight. And, these are not small businessmen mind you, but wholesalers with their annual turnovers running into several crores. Sitting away from the glitter and glamour of modern office spaces, these traders are the essence of old city set up by Guru Ram Das.

The remnants of the traditional building style — some restored, others in a shambles — can be spotted while strolling in the by-lanes of the old city. Each time the city was rebuilt, residents experimented with new styles but locals’ preference for old names remained intact. Katras (neighbourhoods) named after leaders of Sikh misls, forts, bungas (resting places for devotees), gardens, and havelis, mostly built in the period from 1765 to 1802, are still known by these names.

Karmon Deodi

Karmon Deodi was demolished in December 1838 on the orders of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Mai Karmon was a revenue officer close to Sada Kaur, Maharaja’s mother-in-law. The Maharaja got it demolished on the pretext that the low height of the deodi would pose hindrance for the movement of elephants as Lord Auckland, the then Governor General of British India (1836-1842), was to visit the Golden Temple on December 11. However, historians believe that it was a move to show Sada Kaur her place in the durbar. Well, only a Maharaja can afford to antagonise his mother-in-law! An electricity transformer has been installed at the place, but even after 182 years of its demolition, the place is still known as Karmon Deodi.

A prominent ‘hikmatkar’ (one who practises medicine) Shado Nai had set up the practice around two centuries ago. Seven generations later, the shop is still visited by patients with various ailments. The House of Surgery also provides minor surgical facilities. Even the street is named after Shado Nai. In Punjab, most people from the community, apart from being barbers, were professional cooks and ‘hikmatkars’.

Bheedi (narrow) Gali

The narrow lanes in which only a single person can cross at a time without his shoulders touching the walls are a prominent feature of the street structure in the old city. Though the city has numerous such lanes, the one near the Partap Bazaar is known by the name of Bheedi Gali.

Bazaar Kanjrian (now Partap Bazaar)

As the courtesans operated from the area, the market was known as Bazaar Kanjrian or Bazaar Mughla. The chajjas (wooden balcony constructed on the street side) were used by the courtesans to attract prospective clients. These structures can still be seen in the market.

Raja Market

Raja of Poonch, Shiv Rattan Dev Singh, owned several properties around the Golden Temple, which were later purchased by immigrants from Sialkot. One of these properties, Raja Market, still bears his name. Lala Wasti Ram had played a prominent role in making the deal with the Raja’s munshi in 1950. Most importantly, shops still have wooden benches for customers to sit. Lala Wasti Ram’s son Surinder Bhatia (77) is president of the market. Surinder says though they were the owners of the property, they feel proud that it once belonged to Raja Shiv Rattan. A scene from Diljit’s movie ‘Punjab 1984’, wherein Sonam Bajwa comes to buy clothes before her marriage, was shot at this market.

Chajjas as a symbol of affluence

The old Ambarsariyas loved chajjas (balconies) carved out of wood with intricate floral designs. Despite numerous variations and experiments with European style, chajjas outside the residences of prominent residents were a common feature. The owners of buildings constructed in the early 20th Century, were more swayed by European style, but their love for chajjas did not fade with time.

Angreji Palla

The Angreji Palla (English door) had been in prominent use as the European style became quite prevalent. It became so popular that even commoners used it in their homes until recently. However, later with the popularity of ply-board doors and other variants, that are budget-friendly, its popularity diminished over time. In the picture, one can see the abandoned building at the entrance of Korian Wali Gali, the crawling street, where Indians were not allowed to walk but had to crawl as dictated by the British.

Baskets hanging outside windows still common

The practice of a hanging a basket outside the windows is still prevalent in many parts of the city. Women in the area used the basket to buy groceries, vegetables and other items from street vendors. It enabled them to avoid climbing and descending the stairs to make purchase. While the vendor would put the items in the basket, the women would send the money down using the same.