The best of Parsi cuisine

Pushpesh Pant

We believe that there are many non-vegetarian recipes in India that are no less satisfying and exotic than the much-hyped qormas and salans in the repertoire of Awadh and Hyderabad.

During a recent visit to Mumbai, we renewed our lost contacts with Parsi friends and most of the time was, not surprisingly, spent discussing food. We indulged but still couldn’t accommodate one of our favourites, jaradalu ma gosht, in the tight schedule. We decided to cook it at the earliest opportunity. As we stepped into the kitchen, we were reminded of another forgotten friend, salli boti. In this, fried potatoes, the size of matchsticks, add their crispy crunch to meat curry. We decided to use salli as garnish and are happy to report to our dear readers that the results were more than encouraging. This is really a three-in-one delight. It combines the joy of gorging on French fries while tickling the sweet tooth with dried apricots. Of course, succulent chunks of meat and the marrow-enriched thick, sauce-like, gravy has its own seductive power. The dish, subtly sweet and sour, is exceptional. It is equally enjoyable with roti and rice.

JARADALU MA GOSHT

Ingredients

750 g mutton shank & shoulder (cleaned, trimmed, washed and patted dry)

200 g dried apricots (soaked in warm water to soften, and pitted)

150g onions (peeled and chopped fine)

100 g tomatoes (chopped fine)

1 tsp ginger and garlic paste

1 x 2 piece of cinnamon stick, 3 cloves

1/2 tsp peppercorns, 2 green cardamoms

1 tbsp malt vinegar

1/2 tsp red chilli powder

1 tsp cumin powder, 2 tsp coriander powder

Salt to taste

200 ml oil

Garnish

150 g potatoes (peeled, sliced into matchsticks and deep-fried)

Sprig of fresh coriander

Method: Heat oil in a thick bottomed pan and when it reaches smoking point, add the whole spices. Reduce the heat to medium as soon as the spices change colour. Add onions and stir fry till golden brown. Put in the garlic and ginger pastes and stir fry for 30 seconds. Now add all the powdered spices along with salt and tomatoes. If needed, sprinkle a tablespoon of water to avoid burning. Fry till fat leaves the sides. Add mutton and continue to fry till the meat is well browned. Add malt vinegar and mix well. Add two cups of boiling water and cook covered for 20 minutes on medium-low flame. Uncover and add the apricots. Simmer for another 7-8 minutes. Add a little water if the meat is still not done. Adjust the seasoning and garnish with salli and fresh coriander. You may sprinkle half a teaspoon of lemon juice if you wish to reduce the fruity sweetness. Enjoy!