The wonder that is dahi

Pushpesh Pant

Dahi, derived from the original Sanskrit word ‘dadhi’, has been an integral part of India’s identity. It was described as the land where rivers of milk and curd (that’s what dahi is called in English; it’s also known as yogurt, though experts insist there are subtle differences) flowed, indicating extraordinary prosperity. Our pastoral ancestors, the Vedic Aryans, valued it as a nourishing food — easy to digest and pure. It was used in madhupark, a flavourful beverage prepared from milk, curd and honey, diluted with a little water; it has come down to us as panchamrit, ritually offered in temples. Countless verses of Hindi poetry refer to prankster Krishna tormenting the milkmaids of Vrindavan by breaking their pitchers of dahi. Kathak dancers pirouette to compositions like ‘Dadhi ki matki jhatki, patki khai ke dahi bikhra diyo!’ Other dairy products obtained from dahi are freshly churned butter or makkhan and the chhaachh, aka buttermilk or whey. These too were favourites of Krishna and are associated with his leela, the celestial play. Surdas and Raskhan have sung of his weakness for these beverages from the dahi family.

Different regions of India have their own signature delicacies fashioned out of curd. In Bengal, you can relish bhapa doi or mishti doi. Bhapa doi is baked in steam and can beat the much-hyped cheesecake any day, while mishti doi, which is set in clay pots, absorbs the seductive fragrance and flavour of the earthen vessel. In Maharashtra and Gujarat, it is shrikhand prepared from hung curd that steals the show. Redolent with green cardamom and saffron, with just a hint of sweetness, it is a light dessert that needs no adornments. In South India, no meal is complete without tair sadam or curd rice. A glass of moru-tempered buttermilk is used to wash down the spicy repast. According to ayurveda, one should avoid drinking water while eating. Instead, it suggests takra (curd churned along with four times water) as substitute as it helps digestion.

In Purvanchal in eastern UP and Bihar, dahi choora is considered the best breakfast. In Punjab, it’s considered sacrilegious to serve parantha without a bowl of dahi. We have also savoured a tadka dahi that is treated like subzi — curd drained of all water is tempered with red chillies, curry leaves, methi dana and mustard seeds and garnished with fresh ginger, green chillies and coriander leaves. And, how can one forget lassi in Amritsar, Patiala and Varanasi?

Across India, raita and pachadi are popular accompaniments to meals, more so in the summers for their time-tested coolant property. The variety of raitas is mind boggling. The commonest is cucumber or boondi. Other quick-fixes include aloo ka raita and pake kele ka raita. Some prefer a fruity pyaaz-kishmish or pineapple. Khajur ka raita is another attractive option. Bathua ka raita is rarely encountered nowadays, but is abundant in health benefits. In the royal kitchens of yore, a non-vegetarian kaleji ka raita wowed the guests. Our favourite is the nimu mul sana from Uttarakhand that blends the pungency of radish and the tang of pahari lemons, with the sweetness of dadim, local pomegranate seeds, and sugar with dahi as the drape. The spicing is interesting — hemp seeds ground with rock salt, shredded red chillies paired with chopped green chillies. Sheer bliss! In the hills, it is enjoyed as an afternoon treat in winters. To our mind, it is perfect to beat the heat too. Though the wasabi-like hard-hitting mustard-laced raita is more common in the hills, this one falls in another league altogether.

Dahi Nimu Mul Sana

Ingredients

Curd 1 cup
Lemon (large, galgal-like) 1
Radish 2
Pomegranate seeds 1 cup
Hemp seeds 1 tbsp
Cumin seeds (optional) 1 tsp
Turmeric powder (optional) A pinch
Garlic cloves (optional) 2
Dry red chilli (shredded) 1
Green chillies (chopped fine) 2
Honey 1 tbsp or to taste
Salt to taste

Method

Peel the lemon and deseed. Wash and scrape the radish, cut into small batons. Whisk the curd. Dry roast the seeds and grind with garlic and chillies. Blend all the ingredients in a bowl and stir in the honey. You may use sugar or jaggery to taste. Slurp!

Bhapa Doi

Ingredients

Hung curd 1 cup
Condensed milk 1/2 cup
Raisins and nuts
(chopped and slivered) 1/4 cup

Saffron (soaked in lukewarm milk)
A few strands
Cardamom powder 1/4 tsp
Sugar to taste

Method

Whisk the curd. Add to it condensed milk and whisk further to blend. Stir in the raisins and nuts along with saffron. Add cardamom powder. Pour into small earthenware or glass bowls. Cover with aluminium foil and steam for 7-8 minutes. When cool, transfer to the fridge to chill.

Dahi ke kebab

Ingredients

Curd (hung to drain all water) 1 cup
Suji/rice flour 1/2 cup
Green chillies (deseeded and chopped fine) 1
Raisins 1 tsp
Figs/apricots (soaked in rosewater for a few hours, then chopped) 1-2
Salt to taste
Oil (to pan grill) 1-2 tbsp

Method

Add salt to the hung curd and shape it into a ball. Divide into small portions and flatten into patties. Create a hollow in the middle and pack the filling prepared from raisins, figs/apricots and chillies, remould into balls and then flatten into kebabs. Spread suji/rice flour on a platter and coat the kebabs with this. Place a thick or non-stick pan on flame. Line it with a thin film of oil. Pan grill the dahi kebab on medium low flame, turning once carefully to make the exterior crisp. Serve with mint chutney.