Unspoilt charm of Seychelles

Turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean welcome us as our flight from Mumbai descends on the narrow airstrip of Seychelles, known for its postcard beaches and unique flora and fauna. The immigration check and visa-on-arrival are quick, as also the currency exchange. In less than 30 minutes, we are out of the tiny Seychelles International Airport in Mahe, the largest of the 115-island archipelago in East Africa.

Outside, our driver-cum-guide Bernard greets us with a big smile. We head straight for the Mahe jetty to catch the ferry to La Digue, one of the country’s most beautiful islands. There are very few cars on the tree-lined roads. Soon, we are crossing lush mountains. At 446 sq km, Seychelles is Africa’s smallest country, and also its richest. “The country’s economy is hugely dependent on tourism and tuna fishing, so any disturbance in the world affects us, be it war or climate change. Deeply ingrained in the Seychellois culture is the preservation of environment, a study of which is a major part of the curriculum, besides sports,” says Bernard, as he proudly shows us a picture of his Olympian son, athlete Ned Azemia. The country hosted the FIFA Beach Soccer in May this year, he shares.

How did you all manage when there were no tourists during Covid-19, I ask him. “We survived quite well… just went fishing and enjoyed our local rum, Takamaka,” grins this Seychellois (pronounced as ‘Seshelwa’, the term for local inhabitants that sounds so Indian).

Bernard also gives us a crash course in history — uninhabited until the mid-18th century, the islands were once used by pirates to hide their booty. The Fiery Cross of Goa is rumoured to be hidden somewhere in the islands, he says. In 1756, the French formally claimed the archipelago and became its first settlers. Along came their African slaves. Later, the British took over. The country became independent in 1976.

Colonial influences linger everywhere, be it monuments like the Victoria Clock Tower, the architectural styles, food, or even the language (Creole), which evolved from interaction between the colonial rulers and the slaves.

In the heart of the capital city of Victoria stands the Freedom Square. Facing it in the Peace Park is a tall statue of Mahatma Gandhi, in company of James Mancham, founding President of the Republic of Seychelles, and Nelson Mandela.

Ferries offer a budget-friendly option to commute to the three main islands compared to the 15-minute domestic flights. As we step into the jetty cafe for a quick bite, an Indian waiter greets us. “Many Indians, mostly from the South, work here in the hospitality sector and construction business,” says Sunil from Hyderabad. “The salaries are good, and food similar,” he says, adding that spicy food won’t be an issue here.

The ferry to La Digue is ready to leave. For the next 90 minutes, we are bouncing over the ocean’s choppy waters. Friendly advice to manage motion sickness comes to our rescue: avoid tea or coffee before boarding, and keep Hajmola or chaat masala handy.

La Digue seems like a place that has decided to slow down. The island is surrounded by 18 beautiful beaches, including the iconic Anse Source d’Argent. There are barely any cars on the roads and most people are riding bicycles. Nearly everyone greets us with a ‘Hello’ or ‘Bonjour’ as we explore the island on our rented bicycles. Our first beach stop is Grand Anse, a beautiful stretch of white sand and blue sea. A local tells us that a ‘small hike’ would lead us to secret beaches.

The hike turns out to be not so small. We reach Anse Coco and Anse Petite, postcard beaches minus the crowds.

We then set off for the famed Anse Source d’Argent, which lies in the L’Union Estate and has an entry fee. En route, we cross some vanilla plantations. We also stop by a tortoise pen, where Aldabra Giant Tortoises, one of the largest tortoise species in the world, are lazing around. Endemic to the country, these are known for their lifespans of more than 150 years.

The massive granite boulders along the beach seem otherworldly. Natural weathering and erosion of the island’s bedrock over millions of years have sculpted these monoliths. Offering perfect shots for Instagram posts, this beach is among the most photographed in the world.

A kayak ride in the clear waters reveals a coral reef, small fish, sea cucumbers and other marine life in the lagoon. Anis, a guide from Crystal Water Kayaks, explains how the 1997 El Nino had bleached more than 90 per cent of the reef. “Climate change has been real for us. Even today, the damage remains,” he says. The day ends with a peaceful sunset cruise.

Dinner is at Fish Trap, a popular local restaurant. Its Seychellois manager tells us how he had recently travelled to Chennai for his wife’s gall bladder surgery. Medical tourism to India is common, he says.

At a local shop, shelves are stocked with Indian curries and masalas. Nearly 9 per cent of the country’s population comprises people of Indian origin. “Creole cuisine uses spices like cinnamon, bay leaves, black pepper and chilli. The familiar flavours make it easier for Indians to adapt,” says Shaji from Kerala, who moved here two decades back.

The next day, we plan a trip to Praslin. The island is known for serene turquoise beaches, including the stunning Anse Lazio, and the legendary Vallee de Mai, home to the world’s largest nut, Coco de Mer. One of the world’s smallest natural UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it houses the largest intact forest of these buttock-shaped double coconuts, which can weigh up to 20 kg. There are rules if this palm tree happens to grow in your yard: you own the tree, but not the seed. That belongs to the government, tells our Praslin driver.

The country takes conservation very seriously. Most of the beaches are public and there is no mindless development or construction near the sea. Local markets cater to basic needs and there are no big malls.

Seychelles is a lesson in viewing nature in its raw form, with the giant tortoises reminding us that, sometimes, the best way to travel is to slow down.

Travel tips

Seychelles offers visa on arrival for Indians. An ETA form is to be submitted online beforehand.

Indigo has started a 4.5-hour direct flight from Mumbai, four times a week.

Besides domestic flights by Air Seychelles, two main ferry operators, Cat Cocos and Cat Rose, offer daily transport between the islands. Tickets need to be booked in advance.

The Seychellois cuisine is a fusion of French, British, African, Indian and Chinese influences.

Credit and forex cards are accepted, but smaller outlets prefer local currency, Seychellois Rupee (1 SCR= Rs 6).