Chef Sadaf Hussain presents his grandmother’s classic 'Gooler Kebab' recipe with a twist

For many, food is more than fuel, it can be a ritual, a meditation, bridge to nostalgia or a touchstone of home. For me, it’s the warm embrace of belonging, and every shared meal is a celebration of the people who fill my life.

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Certain dishes become the bookmarks of our childhood or the unmistakable flavours of our city, the tastes we carried in our pockets like cherished stories. As a chef or someone who cherishes food like a poet clings to verse, my impulse has always been to recreate those very flavours I’ve munched on all my life, or to reinterpret them, weaving my own memory into each recipe.

My childhood food memories are steeped in the smoky aroma of kebabs: tender Shaami, succulent Boti, spicy Chapli, and the rustic Khiri or Bihari kebab; a squeeze of lemon, and sometimes a soft roomali roti or buttered parantha, turning those seasoned morsels into a complete, soul-satisfying meal. To the wider world, kebabs might be street‐food indulgences or royal delicacies, but for me, these are deceptively humble preparations, brimming with nuanced flavours. True mastery lies in the credo “less is more”, a lesson many overlook. I inherited this philosophy from my parents and many other ‘kebab connoisseurs’, my aunt, the hotel chefs under whom I trained, and the elderly kebab maestros whose weathered faces told stories of decades spent perfecting every subtle twist of taste. From them, I learned that a careful balance of salt, spice, and fat rather than an overload of ingredients unveils the true depth and character at the heart of every kebab.

One of my family’s most cherished dishes is ‘Gooler Kebab’, an heirloom recipe passed down from my grandmother to my mother, and now to me. Its tender meat, subtly spiced with toasted poppy seeds and chopped nuts has always been a celebration of our lineage. Instead of guarding this secret, I want to share it so that everyone can taste the warmth of our kitchen. After all, as Salim bin ’Abdullah related from ‘Umar bin Khattab, the Messenger of Allah, taught: “Eat together and do not eat separately, for the blessing is in being together.” In every bite of Gooler Kebab, you’ll find not only flavour, but the blessing of shared history and community.

Below is my take on the classic ‘Gooler Kebab’: I’ve added a garnish of mushrooms tossed in sizzling chilli oil, served atop a bed of turmeric-infused hung curd. The fiery red of the mushrooms against the vibrant yellow curd creates a playful contrast — feel free to swap in your own garnishes and make this dish uniquely yours.

Gooler Kebab

For the kebab base

Chana dal (split Bengal gram, soaked for two hours)     200 gm

Water (for cooking dal)                                                          3-4 cups

Mutton (boneless, cut into large chunks)                           ½ kg

Whole red chillies (adjust heat as perpreference)             8-10

Ginger-garlic paste                                                                1½ tbsp

Salt                                                                                           To taste

Coriander seeds (roasted & crushed)                               1 tbsp

Cumin seeds (roasted & crushed)                                     1 tbsp

Fresh coriander leaves (roughly chopped)                      ¼ cup

Fresh mint leaves (roughly chopped)                               ¼ cup

Green chillies (sliced, optional for extra punch)             2-3

Garam masala powder                                                         1 tsp

Plain yogurt                                                                            1 tbsp

Egg (lightly beaten)                                                              1

Oil                                                                                           For deep frying

For the stuffing

Poppy seeds (posto dana) lightly toasted)                      2½ tbsp

Raisins (soaked, drained)                                                   4 tbsp

Cashews (roasted & chopped)                                            4 tbsp

Fried onions (crispy and golden)                                        ½ cup

Sugar                                                                                         1½ tbsp

Chilli powder                                                                           2½ tbsp

Salt                                                                                            To taste

Method

Drain the soaked chana dal and simmer with whole red chillies until soft. Drain, then pulse in a grinder with ginger-garlic paste, roasted/crushed coriander and cumin seeds, chopped coriander and mint leaves, green chillies (optional), garam masala, and a tablespoon of yogurt until you have a thick, grainy paste.

Parboil the boneless mutton with a pinch of salt (and turmeric, if using) until just cooked through. Drain, let cool, and shred or finely grind in a smooth paste with the chana dal mix. Add the beaten egg (and a splash of reserved mutton stock if needed) to bind. Season with salt. Divide into golf-ball-sized portions; flatten each into a disc.

Prepare the stuffing by mixing together toasted poppy seeds, fried and chopped cashew and raisins, fried onion, chilli powder and sugar. Spoon in the disc with about a teaspoon of the stuffing and seal into a patty, a ball or on a longer oval shape. Chill for 15-20 minutes.

Heat oil in a deep pan to around 160-170°C. Gently slide in three to four kebabs at a time, frying on medium heat until both sides are crisp and golden (about 5-7 minutes). Drain on paper towels.

Serve with garnish: Spread a spoonful of turmeric-infused hung curd on each plate. Place 2-3 hot kebabs on top and finish with chilli oil-tossed mushrooms (or your preferred garnish). Add a lemon wedge and fresh mint leaves for brightness then enjoy with coriander and mint chutney

— Sadaf Hussain is an Author and Chef who explores food and foodlores to understand the social fabric. His latest book, ‘Masala Mandi’ (Penguin Random House India), celebrates more than 480 spice blends from the Indian subcontinent.