Architectural marvel where Pahari miniature painting reached it zenith

Raghav Guleria

Dharamsala, March 31

The fort at Sujanpur Tihra is arguably the most beautiful one in the entire Himalayan region. Though it got severely damaged in the devastating earthquake of 1905, inside the crumbling palace walls still lie decorative arches and faded paintings.

An impressive entrance gateway and a symmetrically arched Baradari still stand majestically on the hilltop, providing a splendid view of the snow-clad Dhauladhars.

The fort overlooks the huge lush green Chaugan (a polo ground), the biggest one in the entire Himachal Pradesh. The town beneath the fort boasts beautiful temples built in an unusual blend of conventional Nagara architecture, decorated with floral murals of legends from the Ramayana and Mahabharata.

It was earlier called ‘Sajjanpur’, a town of honest and gentle people, and ‘Tihra’ for being situated along a strip of the foothills. At 24 km from Hamirpur town, the Sujanpur Tihra fort stands at an altitude of 515 metre. The historic fort stands majestically as a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage and architectural grandeur. It was built by Raja Abhay Chand of the Katoch dynasty of Kangra in 1758. During Abhay Chand’s regime, the state flourished in business, education, art and culture.

Talking to The Tribune, Aishwarya Katoch, the present head of the Katoch royalty, said, “The fort is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. The ASI takes care of repair and maintenance and the title continues to

be with us.”

It was Raja Sansar Chand, the most notable king in the Katoch lineage, who shifted his capital from Kangra fort to Sujanpur fort. It was here that the much-talked about patronage to the school of Pahari miniature paintings was extended by the art-loving king. Under Sansar Chand, art and culture flourished in the region like never before.

A series of paintings on Baramasa, Geet Govind, Ramayana and Mahabharata were drawn by renowned artists under the state patronage. The unique wall paintings and the rare frescos are now feebly visible on the walls of the fort and temple, reminiscent of the golden era boldly marked in the columns of history.

Narvdeshwar Mahadev Temple, built during 1823 AD, is an architectural marvel. All the interior and exterior walls of this temple are decorated with rarest of the rare murals having minute detailing.

The baradari at Sujanpur fort is the most attractive and also has a very intriguing story. The 21 arched entries are believed to be one each for 21 Pahari Rajas who were subdued and subjugated by Sansar Chand.

According to Aishwarya Katoch, “It was Raja Sansar Chand who converted Sujanpur fort from a military garrison into a palatial fort.”

Annoyed with the overlordship of Sansar Chand, Raja Bilaspur, together with others Pahari rajas, invited the Gurkhas led by Amar Singh Thapa. A fierce battle followed at Mahal Morian, which forced Sansar Chand to again take refuge in the Kangra fort.

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