Nurpur Fort that dared to defy mighty British now in ruins

Raghav Guleria

Dharamsala, March 17

The historic Nurpur fort stands majestically as a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage and architectural grandeur. In over 1,000 years of its history, the formidable fort has witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties and withstood sieges and conquests, remaining an indelible symbol of resilience and might through ages.

Sent to Kalapani, died at 24: the inspiring tale of Wazir Ram Singh

• The story of Nurpur fort is incomplete without the mention of the heroic deeds and sacrifices of Wazir Ram Singh. Arik Moran, a research scholar presently teaching in Haifa University, had visited Nurpur for his research on Wazir Ram Singh as he was greatly impressed by his heroic deeds. As per Moran, nowhere in history has a young boy, just of 16 years, dared to challenge the mighty British.
• According to the information available with the district administration, Wazir Ram Singh Pathania of the erstwhile Nurpur state was arrested through a conspiracy when he was worshipping and later sentenced to life imprisonment at Kalapani by the British. He had challenged the British who were trying to annex the state. After his arrest the British shifted him to Rangoon where he was badly tortured. Ram Singh sacrificed his life for the honour and dignity of his motherland on November 11, 1849, at the age of 24.
• Rajeshwar Pathania, residing at Basa Waziran, a descendent of Ram Singh Pathania, says the fort is at the most commanding place in the region as one can see miles from it. “The fort was self-sustainable as there was provision for everything inside. There were huge water bodies to quench the thirst in case of sieges, which at times lasted for months.”

Temple dedicated to Lord Krishna & Meera

The complex of ancient Nurpur Fort also houses Sri Brijraj Swami temple, believed to be the only temple in north India, where Lord Krishna’s idol is placed alongside Meerabai and not Radha. The temple walls have magnificent frescos which have faded over time. Legend says that the idol of Krishna in black marble is the original one revered by Meera and it had come here as a gift from the Royalty of Chittor.

‘Not satisfied with upkeep’

• Durgeshwar Singh Pathania, the present head of the Nurpur royal family, and an advocate by profession, is looking after his ancestral land. The palatial heritage house where the family lives is at Khushi Nagar, popularly known as ‘Raja Ka Dera’. It is situated on the outskirts of the town. It became the family’s new abode after a fierce battle with the British.
• Not satisfied with the restoration and the upkeep of the fort premises, Pathania feels that the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and the state Tourism Department should develop it from the tourism point of view as it has an unparalleled history of valour and bravery. Talking to The Tribune the Nurpur scion said, “The fort needs improvements to turn it into a preferred tourist destination. A light-and-sound event every evening showcasing the valour of our ancestors who challenged the British can be of interest to one and all. The ballads of Wazir Ram Singh Pathania, which were so famous and popular in the region, should also be revived.”

Built on a cliff, the fort at Nurpur overlooks Jabhar Khad, a tributary of Chakki rivulet, and the valley.

On the inside are crumbling palace walls with decorative arches and faded paintings. The northwest walls still have the panels with carved animal depictions. The walls also have beautiful figures of men, women, children, kings, gods, goddesses and birds inscribed on them.

The fort is in ruins except for the façade of the splendid entry gates. Though under the management of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), not much has been done for its upkeep.

Kaka Darves, Mahmood Khan from Chowari was the last of the ballad singers who often sang: “Koi Killa Pathania Zor Kadiya…”at many functions. Nurpur was ruled by the Pathania dynasty, which claims to be a branch of the Tomars of Delhi, who ruled from their capital at Lalkot — the present day Mehrauli.

Originally known as Dhameri, the kingdom of Nurpur was founded in the late 11th century by Jeth Pal who was the younger brother of the ruler of Delhi.

The history of Nurpur touched its zenith between 1580 and 1613 when it was ruled by Raja Basu Dev. Its golden era was during the reign of Dev’s son Raja Jagat Singh Pathania (1618-1646) who is remembered till date.

Ballads were sung in his honour: “Jaisa Raja Jagat Singh Vaise Hote Dou-Char Disha Bukhand Mein Bhukha Na Marta kou.” The town got its name from Queen Nur Jahan, empress of Mughal ruler Jahangir, who visited Nurpur. The Mughal king was on a conquest spree of Kangra and the empress accompanied him till Nurpur. It is said Nur Jahan got so fascinated by Nurpur environs that she desired to permanently settle down here. As per a lore, the king gathered people suffering from goitre in large number around the empress to make her change her mind.

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