From France to Dharamsala: Cannard’s 16,000 km cycling odyssey for inner peace

Traversing 16,000 km across rugged terrain and diverse cultures, 64-year-old Philippe Cannard—a devoted Buddhist from the small village of Fay in France near the Swiss border—has finally reached Dharamsala, fulfilling a long-cherished spiritual dream.

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His journey, which began 16 months ago, took him through Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Albania, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Cyprus, Iran and Pakistan, before he entered India through the Wagah Border near Amritsar. Philippe was among the last few foreign nationals granted entry at the border post, making his final push towards the Himalayan foothills and the spiritual refuge of Dharamsala.

Riding a simple, gearless bicycle outfitted with saddlebags, Philippe averaged between 65 to 120 km a day. Along the way, he immersed himself in the cultures, faiths and landscapes of each country he passed through. His toughest stretch, he says, was cycling through Iran and Pakistan, where he faced dense traffic, intense heat and severe air pollution. “I was escorted by police in Pakistan and had to report to the local station daily as part of protocol,” he recalled. “I slept in mosques, police stations and sometimes in the homes of Imams. Even when I fell sick, I kept moving forward with the goal of reaching Dharamsala.”

Philippe had applied for his Indian visa while in Iran, already focused on completing his journey to the land he associates with peace and Buddhist philosophy. Now in Dharamsala, he plans to stay for two months, undergoing traditional Tibetan medical treatment and deepening his inner healing through meditation at Tushita Centre. He also hopes to visit several monasteries and spend time with monks, taking back with him not just memories but the wisdom of their teachings.

Pedals in sync, hearts on road

Philippe was recently spotted cycling in Dharamsala alongside local cycling enthusiasts Jeremy Russell and Rohit Samuel. As someone who has pedaled across continents, it wouldn’t be surprising to see him join them on the winding trails of the Kangra valley—turning solo rides into shared strides through the serene hills and verdant vales of Himachal.

Philippe plans to return to France by the end of June 2025—but until then, Dharamsala will be his home, his sanctuary and the final stop on an extraordinary pilgrimage of endurance, faith and inner peace.