Heritage shop to make way for luxurious outlet

Was synonymous with Dalai Lama’s abode

Vishal Gulati

McLeodganj, August 29

A Parsi business family has disposed of the 160-year-old prime British-era property in this tourist resort that is expected to give way to an ultra-luxurious commercial outlet.

Set up in 1860, the Nowrojee and Sons General Store is the last iconic private landmark in the once-peaceful abode of the Tibetan spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama, with the mighty Dhauladhars in the backdrop.

Old-timers fondly recall this prominent colonial landmark in the quaint uphill town known for attracting a steady stream of Tibetan enthusiasts, Buddhist scholars, backpackers and even Hollywood stars. Before Independence, the grand wooden store used to take care of the daily requirements of the British officers and their families. It sold a variety of goods from bakery items to tobacco to toiletries and liquor to even arms and ammunition.

The store in the heart of the town has seen five generations of the Nowrojees. The late Nauzer Nowrojee, a friend of the Dalai Lama, looked after the store-cum-residence set up by his great-grandfather for over 60 years.

The eldest of five brothers, Nauzer, was born in Karachi in 1915 and died here at the age of 85. After his death, his bachelor brother Jimmy looked after the business.

“With the sale of this prime heritage, very soon, we will lose the old world charm that still showcases antique glass jars, lanterns and classic old advertisement hoardings,” says octogenarian Naresh Sood, who goes nostalgic for his long association with the Nowrojees.

After the death of Nauzer and Jimmy, the shop was handed over to a local caretaker, who sells only newspapers, magazines and confectionery. The shop — the store is synonymous with McLeodganj — even withstood the devastating Kangra earthquake of 1905, recall locals.

They say due to inadequate repairs, a lack of financial resources with the owners and a limited understanding of heritage preservation, the building was in a dilapidated state for nearly three decades.

A local businessman has purchased the Gothic-style architecture store and intends to bulldoze the building to make way for an ultra-luxurious hotel. “Another eyesore is set to take its place,” says another local Tashi Dawa, who is settled here since early 1960s.

“I wish the government should take over the building like British-era Bantony Estate in Shimla that was also decaying for many years. Such an iconic place could boost tourism,” he said.

Justifying the decision to sell the heritage, Nauzer’s youngest son Parvez Nowrojee says a caretaker was running the shop for almost a decade. “Of course, it has been a tough decision for the family to dispose of the property,” he adds. He along with his elder brother Nowrojees, who owns a tea business in West Bengal, is currently here. The family also sold the British machinery to manufacture the aerated drinks to a junk dealer.

One of the oldest antiques in the store’s possession is Petromax 835 Special, a German-made hanging wick lamp. A large number of wine and liquor bottles with their soiled labels and antique glass jars are also lying in the shop.

McLeodganj was a civilian settlement outside the British garrison of Dharamsala. It was known as the ‘Ghost town’ after the British left India. — IANS