Dalai Lama’s haven battles isolation as routes collapse

McLeodganj, the serene Himalayan town that draws seekers from around the world as the home of the Dalai Lama, is today grappling with an unprecedented crisis. The very roads that carry pilgrims, tourists and locals to this spiritual hub have given way to the fury of prolonged monsoon rains, exposing years of neglect, poor planning and fragile geography.

The town’s main artery, National Highway 503, has been battered beyond recognition. Stretching from the War Memorial to McLeodganj, large portions have caved in, while protective retaining walls have collapsed. Last week, matters turned critical when an entire section near the bus stand simply sank into the earth, forcing the administration to block the road for all movement. Officials have promised a detailed project report to push restoration, yet many landslide-hit stretches from last year still remain untouched.

The Khada Danda road, a once-reliable shortcut, has fared no better. Major cracks and slides near Kirpu More, Jogiwara and Karmu diversion have rendered it unsafe. Repeated digging for cables and sewage lines, coupled with a complete disregard for drainage, have weakened the slopes to breaking point. Engineers admit the damage is extensive and continuous rainfall makes repair work almost impossible for now.

The final fallback, the Kotwali Bazaar route, is sinking too, especially near the Kali Mata temple. Experts trace the problem to reckless cutting during the construction of the bypass below, when traditional step-stone walls, which held the slopes together for centuries, were destroyed. Locals allege even those stones were misused elsewhere. With this being the last surviving link to McLeodganj, Bhagsunag, Naddi and Dharamkot, the rising traffic pressure could be catastrophic.

For residents, the crisis is more than just disrupted travel. It is about livelihoods, supplies, and access to essential services. For visitors, it threatens the dream of reaching one of India’s most iconic spiritual and cultural destinations. And for authorities, it is a wake-up call that fragile Himalayan towns cannot withstand unchecked construction and negligence.

As rains continue, McLeodganj waits anxiously for its lifelines to be restored, battling not just nature’s fury, but human apathy.