Kamlah Fort: From bastion of kings to broken walls

Rising high at 4,772 feet on the rugged Sikandar Dhar ridge in Mandi’s Dharampur Assembly constituency, Kamlah Fort, also known as Kamlahgarh, still whispers stories of valour, resistance and royal intrigue. Built in 1625 by Raja Suraj Sen of Mandi, this mighty stronghold was more than stone walls and battlements. It was the heartbeat of a kingdom. For nearly two centuries, the fort guarded not only the ruler’s treasury and armoury but also the pride of a state that refused to bend easily before invading powers.

In its prime, Kamlah Fort was regarded as impenetrable. Its architecture cleverly fused natural ridges with stone masonry, creating a near-perfect defence system. It repelled invaders time and again, even resisting Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s siege in 1830. A decade later, however, combined Sikh-British forces breached its defences in 1840, inflicting heavy damage. The Mandi rulers rebuilt much of what was lost, ensuring the fort remained a symbol of resilience and authority well into the 19th century.

But today, the once-thundering fort lies silent, its grandeur reduced to rubble, its strategic might buried under years of neglect.

The echoes of ruin

Visitors who attempt the steep climb to the fort are met not with glory, but with decay. The stone staircase that once led soldiers and royals to its gates has collapsed, making entry treacherous. Within its precincts, history itself seems to crumble. The famed “Rani ki Gufa,” the cave where the queen is believed to have hidden during times of war, lies in ruins. The outer walls are shattered and interior chambers, once filled with weapons, scrolls and royal possessions, stand barren. For locals, the fort is not merely an abandoned structure, it is a heritage jewel slipping away.

Promises and delays

“Despite its historical significance, no serious attempt has been made to restore Kamlah Fort,” laments Salender Bharmoria, pradhan of Gram Panchayat Kamlah. He recalls that a Rs. 9.14 crore restoration project was once sanctioned, with Rs 1 crore released, but the amount remains unutilised.

Political voices echo the frustration. Rajat Thakur, BJP leader from Dharampur, reminds that the Central Government had not only cleared funds but also envisioned a ropeway under the ‘Naye Rahen, Naye Manzilen’ tourism initiative.

Yet, little has moved beyond files and announcements. “This fort could be a crown jewel of Himachal’s tourism map, but delay after delay is bleeding it of life,” he said.

Government assurances

Officials maintain that efforts are underway. Dharampur SDM Joginder Patiyal, who also heads the Kamlah Fort Trust Committee, said Rs 15 lakh has been given to the Jal Shakti Department for building access pathways. Jal Shakti XEN Kamal Kumar added that Rs 1 crore has been received for restoration and consultants are being hired.

Meanwhile, Dharampur MLA Chander Shekhar insists that the present government is serious about reviving the site. “The monsoon has worsened the damage, especially to pathways. We are now using local stone for rebuilding, not concrete,” he assured. He further revealed that INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) is being consulted, and Chief Minister Sukhvinder Singh Sukhu has announced Rs 4 crore for the fort’s restoration. Funds from the Kamlihiya Baba Trust may also contribute.

A heritage on the brink

Despite promises, skepticism runs deep among the people of Dharampur. The fort has waited decades for revival, only to be caught in red tape and indifference. Each passing monsoon chips away at its foundations, and with it, a part of Himachal’s cultural soul.

If Himachal Pradesh truly seeks to brand itself as a tourism haven, monuments like Kamlah Fort must not remain forgotten relics. To lose Kamlah would be more than losing a fortress. It would be erasing a chapter of history that once defined the spirit of Mandi.