Kotla Fort: Where Guler kings still whisper through the ruins

Perched high above the Dehar rivulet, along the winding stretch of National Highway-20, stands Kotla Fort — weathered, fractured, yet defiantly alive in memory. Today its sandstone walls crumble with age, but every stone breathes stories of kings and warriors, of temples and devotion, and of a fortress that once reigned supreme over the Kangra valley.

Built around 1540 CE by Raja Ram Chand, the 15th ruler in the proud lineage of Hari Chand, the founder of Guler state in 1405, Kotla Fort was no mere stronghold. It was the pulse of power, its lofty position making it both a military shield and an administrative command post. With thick walls, towering watchtowers and maze-like corridors, the fort was virtually impregnable for centuries, shaping the destinies of those who ruled from within.

At its entrance, the sacred Baglamukhi Temple welcomes visitors. Raised by the Guler Rajas, the shrine is adorned with intricate arches and finely chiselled stonework, earning devotion as much for its spiritual presence as for its artistry. Alongside it stands the Ganesh Temple, its Bengal-style rounded roof offering yet another glimpse of the architectural diversity that flourished under the Guleria rule. The fading frescoes and sculptural details around these sanctums whisper of a time when religion and craftsmanship walked hand in hand.

Crowning the fort is its palace, now in ruins yet still commanding awe. “The palace atop the fort though in ruins now is an architectural marvel,” remarks T. Sering Phunchuk, Superintending Archaeologist with the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Declared a centrally protected monument of national importance, Kotla Fort is receiving renewed attention. “We recently constructed a retaining wall below the Baglamukhi Temple and more preservation projects are planned,” Phunchuk adds, hinting at a revival of the site’s dignity.

Kotla’s history is as layered as its stone walls. Though the Guleria chieftains retained control for centuries, the Mughal shadow loomed large in the 18th century. After the death of Mughal governor Saif Ali Khan in 1782, the fort slipped into the hands of Kangra’s legendary Raja Sansar Chand, himself a descendant of the same lineage. Nearly three decades later, in 1811, the fort changed allegiance again. This time to Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who annexed it through a peaceful compromise, granting the Guler rulers a jagir in Mirthal, Punjab.

The final chapter of sovereignty came in 1846, when the British claimed the fort after their victory in the First Anglo-Sikh War. From that point onwards, Kotla ceased to be a fortress of power and instead became a monument of memory.

Today, as pilgrims bow before Baglamukhi and travellers pause on the Pathankot-Kangra road to gaze at the fort’s silhouette against the sky, Kotla still commands reverence. Its walls may be cracked and its corridors empty, yet they hum with the echoes of centuries — of the Guler kings’ ambition, the Mughals’ designs, the Sikhs’ strategies and the British march.

Kotla Fort is no longer a seat of rule, but a living relic — majestic even in ruin and proud in its silence. In the heart of Kangra valley, it continues to tell its tale: of devotion, dynasties and a legacy carved in stone.