Mandi Prof rediscovers Himachal’s culinary heritage

Dipender Manta

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Mandi, March 29

Dr Tara Devi Sen, an assistant professor of botany at Vallabh Government College, Mandi, is rediscovering Himachal Pradesh’s culinary heritage and exploring forgotten flavours. Dr Tara is encouraging people to relish forgotten cuisines of the state.

Talking to The Tribune, Dr Tara said, “In our modern culinary landscape, we’re witnessing a concerning trend, narrowing of the variety of crops we consume. This diminishing diversity not only limits our nutritional intake but also places undue strain on the environment and our health.”

Rhythm of nature

• In Himachali cuisine, a wealth of nutrient-rich superfoods, awaits exploration. Each season in Himachal Pradesh unfolds a new chapter in its culinary saga, offering a vibrant array of seasonal delicacies that reflect the rhythm of nature
• But rising allure of the western culture has ushered in a gradual decline of Himachal Pradesh’s traditional culinary heritage. As contemporary lifestyles increasingly embrace the modern dietary trends, the profound interplay between local cuisine and the surrounding natural environment is fading
• As urbanisation spreads its tendrils, the knowledge of foraging and preparing these traditional ingredients is fading away, threatening to sever our ties to our culinary heritage. It is important to ensure their documentation and preservation for future generations

“Himachal Pradesh stands as a testament to the richness of biodiversity and cultural fusion, offering a culinary heritage steeped in tradition and nourishment. The region boasts a treasure trove of forgotten foods, once integral to local dishes and revered for their unique flavours and health benefits. The once-celebrated diversity of crops and indigenous ingredients that once adorned our plates is dwindling, replaced by a homogenised selection that fails to capture the essence of our land and culture,” she remarked.

“Amidst a global shift towards this monoculture, fewer crops are sustaining an ever-growing population. The state boasts a culinary heritage as diverse as its lush flora, varied geography and rich cultural tapestry. From the internationally acclaimed Gucchi mushroom and lingad (Fiddlehead) fern to the prized hazelnut and Neoza pine nut, the region’s natural abundance has earned it worldwide acclaim,” said Dr Tara.

“Yet, hidden gems like choohin ka meetha, a sweet treat from Sullu spurge, and bashaar, a delicacy derived from the Wallach’s cobra lily, remain lesser-known but equally tantalising. With dishes like bichubuti from nettle and seek, a delightful confection crafted from Indian horse chestnut seeds, Himachal Pradesh’s culinary repertoire continues to enchant with its diversity and depth,” she added.

“The transition toward modernity is disrupting the longstanding synergy that historically united the region’s gastronomy with its indigenous landscape,” she remarked.

“The remedies for many ailments prevalent in a region could be found within its local vegetation and underscoring the profound connection between our diet and our health. Our ancestors have intelligently devised the recipes to harness the healing properties of the indigenous ingredients,” she said.

“From the warming comfort of winter sweets to the verdant abundance of spring greens, our plates are a testament to the diversity of our land and its offerings,” said Dr Tara.

“As winter descends, the culinary landscape transforms with comforting delicacies like laddoos made of amaranth, sesame, dridh (flannel weed), kuri (goose grass), and a medley of moong and dry fruits take the centre stage, designed to warm the body offering nourishment and fortification against the chill. Sweet treats like seek, dridh ka halwa and puthkanda kheer further enhance immunity and vitality,” she added.

“As late winter approaches, yam varieties emerge as prized seasonal delights, heralding the imminent change in the air. The Arrival of spring brings forth a burst of life, with tender leaves, buds, flowers, and fruits adorning the culinary palette. From Phegdi (Himalayan fig) vegetable to dishes featuring Agave, Opuntia, And Bombax buds, Watercress leaves, the cuisine evolves with the changing landscape, offering a symphony of flavours and textures. Chilla made from the flowers of Indigofera, burans or Kachnar delicacies, and an array of dishes showcasing wild figs celebrate the bounty of the season,” she remarked.

“As summer’s heat intensifies, vegetable curries and sweet treats from choohin; chutneys from burans, and anardana; giloye sirra take precedence, providing relief from the scorching sun. With the onset of the monsoon, sea buckthorn, buckwheat and bashar make their appearance, infusing dishes with freshness and vitality. Autumn brings a harvest of vegetables from Senna varieties” she said.

“Throughout the year, Himachali cuisine celebrates the diversity of local produce, intertwining with festivals and celebrations to offer a glimpse into the region’s rich culinary tapestry. The decline in their consumption over recent decades signals a pressing need to honour and safeguard these ancient food traditions.