Monumental neglect: Haripur-Guler’s world-class heritage breathing its last

Raghav Guleria

Dharamsala, June 27

The treasured twin township of Haripur-Guler in the Dehra subdivision of Kangra district is lying utterly neglected. Despite having all necessary elements of becoming the most sought-after tourist destination of the state, it is helplessly watching its own burial. No official seems to show any interest in this small hill town, once the capital of the erstwhile Guler State.

British anthropologist William Dalrymple has, on many occasions, termed this region the ‘Florence of Himalayan foothills.’

Situated on the banks of Baanganga River, the walled town of Haripur has entries through stairs leading to huge gateways, which still stand majestically, albeit in a ruined state, waiting for a collapse.

The town, which has the potential to be a rare world-class tourist destination with globally renowned art historicity, is desperately in the need of a saviour.

Instead of showing any concern for these monuments, the departments concerned seem more interested in erecting new structures. Representations made by several area residents have fallen on deaf ears.

Panjab University (Chandigarh) Head of Department of Monuments Ashwani Aggarwal, while officially documenting this town, said, “No other place in the entire state has as many temples as Haripur. You name a god, and a temple is already there.”

As the birthplace of the Kangra miniatures, it has its own venerable identity the world over. Historians have marked its contribution to the fields of art, culture and literature as the rarest of the rare.

Dalrymple opines, “The magical rise of the School of Miniature Paintings at Haripur was as significant as the Renaissance in Italy.” This should be reason enough for the government to consider its maintenance.

MS Randhawa, who was the Kangra region Divisional Commissioner when it was a part of Panjab, in his book Kangra Paintings on Love clearly highlighted the importance of Haripur-Guler.

Paintings made here over 200 years from the mid-1700s have been exhibited at Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Rietberg Museum, Zurich, in Switzerland; and many other museums across Europe and the US. However, back home, not even a stone been raised or repaired in the last hundred years.

Ironically, successive governments have spent crores of rupees in creating new buildings around Pong Lake, which lay unutilised. However, no one seems to step up and acknowledge the unique structures, much-loved by art connoisseurs across the globe.

This land of master artist Pandit Seu and his illustrious sons Manaku and Nainsukh; Raja Hari Chand — the founder; Raja Goverdhan Chand — the renowned patron; Pandit Chanderdhar Guleri of Usne Kaha Tha fame; and Brijraaj Bhat known for Ramras Lahiri and Mangal Shatak is inching towards its burial.