Whispers of grandeur: Garli & Paragpur’s forgotten havelis finally find a new voice

Nestled in the snow-clad embrace of the Dhauladhar ranges in Kangra valley, the twin villages of Garli and Paragpur offer a captivating blend of history, architecture and rustic charm. Renowned for their heritage buildings, these villages are a must-visit for anyone seeking to explore the cultural countryside of Himachal Pradesh. Often referred to as the “Dynasty of the Soods,” both villages have been officially declared heritage zones by the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India.

As you wander through their narrow lanes, you’ll encounter dozens of heritage havelis and mansions, their architectural styles a stunning mix of Belgian, Italian, Islamic, Rajput and Portuguese influences — making this duo one of the most architecturally unique destinations in India. The village streets reveal a visual feast: elaborate woodwork, Gothic arches, gabled roofs, jaali brickwork, jharokha windows and imposing wooden doors.

Many of these majestic homes bear whimsical and intriguing names like Santri Wali Kothi, Mystery House, Raeeso Wali Kothi and Bhagwan Niwas, each with its own story. For instance, Santri Wali Kothi features statues of two sentries (santris) perched on its roof, while Raeeso Wali Kothi boasts opulent murals and Rajasthani motifs — a reminder of the opulence once enjoyed by its inhabitants.

These heritage homes are more than architectural marvels; they are silent storytellers. If walls could speak, they would narrate tales of trade, travel and legacy. Builders once competed with each other, each trying to outdo the last in design and grandeur, though they shared common elements like slate-shingled gabled roofs.

Today, many of these structures lie abandoned, locked or maintained by caretakers. Their original owners have long moved to cities like Shimla, Chandigarh and Delhi in search of better opportunities.

Yet hope lingers in the air. During recent visits, locals shared a promising shift: the younger generations are slowly returning to their ancestral roots, recognising the heritage they had nearly lost. Some homes have already been restored. One notable example is Chateau Garli, the former residence of Mela Ram, lovingly revived by his grandson after years of neglect. Another is the Judges Court, a grand estate that has been transformed into a heritage resort by its descendants.

Historically, Garli and Paragpur were developed in the 19th century by the prosperous Sood community — merchants originally from Rajasthan who, after traveling the world, chose to build their trading settlement here. Their European-inspired mansions still stand, although many are now in dire need of conservation and care.