17th-century Mughal sarai gets new lease of life

About 20 kilometres from Ludhiana, near Gurdwara Manji Sahib in Kottan, stands a lesser-known, yet historically significant structure—Sarai Lashkari Khan. The centuries-old sarai is a testament to the village’s architectural assortment and benevolence of a Mughal military general, Lashkari Khan.

Popularly known as the Doraha Fort or the famous ‘Rang De Basanti Fort,’ the sarai was erected in 1667 CE during the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb to provide shelter to fatigued wanderers, seeking a breather during their long journeys.

This massive rectangular structure, with rooms and verandas on all sides, speaks volumes of the elegance of Mughal architecture. The two magnificent double storied gateways welcome visitors with open arms. The walls, stretching across approximately 168 meters, form a perfect square with octagonal defence towers, according the structure a distinct look. The southern gateway bears paintings of flora and fauna providing a glimpse into the artistry of the times. The northern gateway boasts similar floral designs, remnants of a time when the sarai was a vibrant hub of activity. One gate is beautifully adorned with blue and yellow glazed tiles, while the other is divided into decorative panels that speak volumes of the bygone era. At the heart of this sarai lies a courtyard, the walls of which bear traces of the colours that once adorned it. The well in the sarai used to quench the thirst of weary explorers, who took a pause at the place. The sarai in every way represents an era of excellence and grandeur.

The Punjab Department of Tourism and Cultural Affairs has worked towards the conservation and renovation of Sarai Lashkari Khan. “The efforts in the first phase include improved visitor pathways, upgraded lighting, interpretive signage and protective roofing to safeguard the original structure. Interpretive panels, describing the sarai’s 1667 CE origin, Mughal highway role and cinematic fame as the RDB Fort, strategic LED facade to showcase the architectural features after dusk are also being added,” shared Atul, an official from the department.

“It is worth appreciating that the AAP government has thought of preserving the historical and cultural treasure. If equal efforts are made for spreading awareness and promotion, the sarai could regain its prominence as an integral part of Punjab’s heritage. The government should also work on the beautification of its lawns so that more people are drawn to the spot. It needs to be popularised by word of mouth and through social media handles, so that no soul passes through the region without halting at the sarai,” shared history-lover Jandeep Kaushal.