Baisakhi fair on the Beas

Hearing Baisakhi songs, I find my feet moving musically. Since childhood, this fair would enchant me. In Kangra, it is a unique festival that trains raw minds. Called ‘Mela Ralian da’, this festival is a long-drawn affair comprising elaborate rituals.

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Like the Minjar festival of Chamba, and Dasehra of Kullu, Baisakhi in Kangra is celebrated on the banks of the Beas. At Mattaur, a grand fair is arranged in April every year. Visitors enjoy thrills as the river falls into a well-like ‘khudd’ (ditch) where these rituals take place. Mud idols of Rali (Parvati) and Lord Shankar are immersed into the falling waters of the Beas, which young girls (‘kanjaks’) from far-flung villages bring as they come singing and dancing. What impresses is the sanctity that they are trained to observe.

The idols are prepared and worshipped for almost six months prior to the festival. These unique antique idols called ‘pistus’ are prepared by potters who know the art of black pottery. The ‘kanjaks’ would themselves visit these potters and observe with keen interest the ‘pistus’ being shaped life-like.

But their actual training and discipline begins through worshipping the ‘pistus’ as gods. This they begin weeks ahead of the festival. In their respective villages, groups of ‘kanjaks’ keep either the idol of Rali or Shankar in their homes in a clean and purified room. Every morning, after bathing, they visit the ‘pistus’ to wake them up thus: ‘Utth utth pistua sotrhia, teri jagan bela hoyee bhalio, Teri toto kardi jhurphuriaan, teri men laindi Ramji da na’ (Get up O idols, it’s time to wake up. Just see how the male parrots are fluttering and the female parrots are reciting the name of God).

Weeks ahead of immersing the idols into the river, the ‘kanjaks’ start taking the ‘pistus’ to the streets of Kangra early every morning. En route, to fetch flowers, they sing: ‘Mein kne bhabo phullan jo challiaan, Phullan phullayee phulla meri bhabo more bole, More sabak sunain meri bhabo more bole’ (My brother’s wife and I go to collect flowers to worship ‘pistus’. You grow like flowers dear ‘bhabhi’ as the peacock makes this prophecy through its songs).

Entering the town, they sing: ‘Jago jago shahar de logo, Dharmi jo jage kharhote, Papiaan jo nindraan pirariaan’ (Get up townspeople. Those who love God have woken up. Only the sinners are sleeping).

Before their immersion, the life-like marriage of these ‘pistus’ is arranged. Parties are arranged and ‘milnis’ are observed. Songs and dances are enjoyed at the beat of drums. On Baisakhi, the ‘pistus’ are immersed into the river waters. Such a scene takes me back to my childhood.