It was last month, May 7 to be precise. Time stood still for five veteran infantry officers, all in their 70s, as we looked across from our mountainous vantage point at the Pakistani posts opposite.
Words cannot describe the emotive exhilaration that coursed through our veins as we remembered how 50 years back we had fought the Indo-Pak War in these very battlefields. With a quiet prayer on our lips for those gallant soldiers killed and the dozen officers who were no longer with us, we clasped one another in silent celebration. A very emotional journey, a dream nurtured over many years, had finally been completed.
Not much had changed here in 50 years. The defences were, however, much stronger and light 4×4 vehicles could now ply over a few treacherous tracks where we used to march on foot with our pack on our backs.
And yet, elsewhere, things had changed. We spent several days driving around in taxis through Baramulla, Rampur and Uri, areas known for militancy and violence. However, in spite of the absence of tourists, these small townships had grown extensively, markets were bustling, small businesses were flourishing and people were moving around freely in two-wheelers and cars, causing a jam.
Gulmarg and Srinagar were chock-a-block with tourists. The queues for the Gondola ride stretched backwards till they disappeared beyond sight. People trotted along on ponies, trying desperately not to fall off. Outside the landmark Shiv Mandir, a family was recreating the famous Rajesh Khanna-Mumtaz song ‘Jai Jai Shiv Shankar’. The Dal Lake was full of shikaras and houseboats with wonderful names, like ‘Prince of Vales’ and ‘Cheerful Charlie’, while local Kashmiris paddled alongside in their boats, selling flowers and perfumes to the honeymooners and handicraft items to the not-so-recently married! Restaurants, cafes and hotels were full, business was booming and the local Kashmiris were smiling. This seemed to be the emerging new face of the Valley, a face which we ardently hope will not get marred by the spate of recent killings of innocents.
Our most heart-warming experience during this trip was to meet officers and men of our Army, who in these hostile terrain, weather and operational conditions, far away from families and civilisation, continue to watch over our territory as well as battle terrorist forces, nurtured, trained and inducted by a treacherous enemy. The spirit and josh of these young men, their cheerful faces and their strong body language filled our hearts with pride. And that is my message to our countrymen. In spite of the buffeting and degradation that the Army is constantly subjected to, these young guardians will always stand upright, ever ready to put their lives on the line for the intangible values of ‘Naam, Namak and Nishan’.
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