Once a dream destination, Goa losing sheen gradually

Rahul singh

I first went to Goa in 1967 to report for a national daily on the “opinion poll”, a referendum of Goans, on whether they wanted to merge with the neighbouring Maharashtra or remain more autonomous. Earlier, in December 1961, the Indian Army had marched into the territory, “liberating” it from the 450-year long Portuguese rule. The operation lasted just 36 hours and was virtually bloodless. To everybody's surprise, in the “opinion poll”, the Goans decided to become a Union Territory (a few years later Goa was given statehood).

On that first visit I fell headlong in love with the place and its people: enchanting scenery, beautiful beaches with clear waters, and warm, friendly inhabitants. I was so captivated that some years later I bought a tiny studio apartment, walking distance from the beach, for less than

Rs4 lakh. I found a mix of Christianity and Hinduism, with a little bit of Islam, all communities living in harmony. Magnificent churches and quaint chapels dotted the countryside, mainly the coast, while the temples were more towards the inner areas. Prime among them were the Shantadurga and Mangeshi (where Lata Mangeshkar comes from) temples, which attract thousands of devotees every day. Most people think Goa is largely Christian and Roman Catholic. Actually, 60 per cent of Goans are Hindus. However, the main tourist attractions are along the coast, where most of the Catholics reside. This was where the Portuguese first came, hence they are called the “old conquests”, as opposed to the “new conquests”, where the Hindus are concentrated.

The Portuguese rulers did something unusual for a “white” colonising race: they encouraged their countrymen who settled down in Goa to marry local women. Hence, there was little racism in Goa, unlike in places where other colonial powers, like the British, conquered the “coloured” people. Initially, the Portuguese did not interfere with local customs and traditions, except banning the practice of sati. But things changed with the “Inquisition”, from 1560 onwards, when the Church became more rigid and intolerant. And, of course, conversions took place.

Since that first trip in 1967, I have been to Goa many times. My favourite time of the year here is the festive season, Christmas and New Year. The climate is just right. Many of the houses and bars are festooned with coloured lights, Santa Clauses adorn street corners, and nativity scenes (birth of Jesus Christ) are beautifully displayed in gardens. The churches reverberate with Christmas carols and everyone participates in the celebrations.

This is what all of India should be like —inclusive and tolerant. I believe this is why so many “outsiders” have bought or rented a second home in Goa (housing is relatively affordable). For Delhiwallahs, Goa is often also an escape from pollution. The food and drinks are incredibly cheap and varied. The first meal for many Indian non-veg tourists is a beef concoction, such as a beef steak or beef chilly fry, having been deprived of it in most parts of the country. Mind you, a BJP government is in power in Goa but it knows that Goans —Hindus and Christians, as well as the foreign tourists — don’t want to be told what they can eat and drink. Little wonder the foreigners have been coming to Goa in droves, mainly on cheap chartered flights.

I wish I could end on a positive note. Goa's infrastructure has certainly improved over the years — there used to be infuriating and regular power cuts and intermittent water supply. Besides, there's more on offer on cultural front — an international film festival is held every year and as I write this, a “Serendipity” arts festival is taking place in Panaji, the capital city. However, unplanned, ugly construction is rapidly ruining the charming landscape. I notice that the once warm and friendly Goans are beginning to resent the presence of so many “outsiders”, some of whom are not sensitive to Goan sensibilities.

The earlier improvements were largely thanks to the late Manohar Parrikar. He may not have been a particularly good Defence Minister, but he was an effective and, by all accounts, an honest chief minister. Unfortunately, this cannot be said of quite a few of his colleagues, both in his own BJP party, and the Opposition. For the past few decades, Goa has become a byword for unbridled corruption, from top to bottom. The family of one minister made its fortune through smuggling, another took massive bribes for giving permission for new buildings. Yet another was heavily into illegal mining operations. The list goes on and on but my favourite story, and it is a true one, is of a Minister who decided he would make a killing at the roulette table in the casino of a five-star hotel. As anybody familiar with gambling knows, when the roulette wheel begins to slow down, the croupier announces, "No more bets please". Our man, however, was determined to win and make a killing. So, he waited until the wheel had slowed down sufficiently for him to know on which number it was going to stop, which is where he placed his bet. And, of course, he demanded his winnings. What he overlooked was that a CCTV camera was recording his shenanigans. And guess what? He was the Minister for Tourism!

Merry Christmas and a happy New Year!

The writer is a veteran journalist

Join Whatsapp Channel of The Tribune for latest updates.