Forgotten Mughal-era treasure
Nakodar’s historic Dakhni Sarai, a stunning 17th-century Mughal-era relic, is rapidly deteriorating due to neglect by the authorities concerned.
Once a grand architectural marvel built by Ali Mardan Khan during Emperor Shah Jahan’s reign, the sarai now struggles with crumbling walls, inadequate facilities and lack of promotion, leading to a sharp decline of visitors.
Nestled 12 km from Nakodar on the Nakodar-Kapurthala road, this protected monument was once a vibrant hub for travellers. The sarai, with an area of 180m by 172m, was designed to provide shelter and respite to weary travellers and traders along historic trade routes. It features 124 intricately designed cells, which were originally used to accommodate travellers, merchants and their goods. The cells, arranged around a serene courtyard, reflect the grandeur and planning of Mughal-era architecture.
The structure boasts of imposing gateways on its eastern and western sides, each strengthened by octagonal bastions topped with domed pavilions. The large entrance arches have deep recesses on either side at the ground level, with two additional stories featuring triple-arched openings and projecting balconies. The entire surface was once adorned with intricate arabesque designs in yellow, orange, green, turquoise and white glazed tiles, some traces of which remain today. A Persian inscription above the western gate attributes the construction of the Sarai to Nur Jahan Begum, with work starting in 1618-19 and completion in 1620-21.
However, despite its rich history, the site is now a shadow of its past glory. Internal walls are visibly crumbling, posing a risk of collapse if urgent repairs are not undertaken. The lack of security or maintenance has only exacerbated the decay, making the site unappealing to visitors.
Basic amenities are non-existent. The drinking water facility is not available, with the approved water purifier system yet to be made functional. Washrooms are in a deplorable state, making visits uncomfortable for tourists. The absence of a canteen or refreshment stall further discourages visitors who expect at least minimal conveniences at heritage sites.
Accessibility is another challenge. Visitors struggle with the poorly maintained approach road and the absence of proper parking. The site lacks signboards or directional markers, making it difficult for outsiders to locate it. The absence of security guards or watchmen also raises safety concerns.
For now, the sarai remains largely popular only among locals from Nakodar, Nurmahal and nearby areas. “For us, it’s a place to walk and enjoy greenery. If guests come, we bring them here, but tourists from outside rarely come,” said Raveena, a local visitor.
Meanwhile, Maj-Gen Balwinder Singh (retd), state convener, Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), said a few months ago, in a letter to the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) Director-General and to the authorities concerned with the central government, he did raise concerns over the Sarai’s deteriorating state and urged immediate restoration, warning the monument’s survival depends on swift intervention. He said he also suggested transforming parts of the sarai into cultural spaces or heritage accommodations, which could attract tourists while generating revenue for its upkeep.
“Moreover, I have also requested the INTACH team in Delhi to get in touch with the ASI, as only after it is properly maintained and promoted, Dakhni Sarai could emerge as a major tourist attraction, drawing history and architecture enthusiasts from across the country. However, until the authorities step up their efforts, this Mughal-era gem will continue to wither away, becoming another forgotten piece of India’s rich cultural heritage,” he said.
