From literary hub to a forgotten relic

“Bazaar Mai Sewan” in Amritsar, once a thriving centre of Punjabi (Gurmukhi) literature, has now faded into obscurity. At its peak, this historic marketplace was home to around 25 major publishers, making it the world’s largest hub for Gurmukhi books. However, today its grandeur is lost, and the market has shrunk considerably.

Advertisement

A major turning point came in 1988 when the government demolished a significant part of the bazaar to build the Galiara around the Golden Temple. This displacement forced many booksellers and publishers to abandon the trade. The original stretch from Darshni Deorhi to Chowk Ghanta Ghar, which once extended over 200 feet, has drastically reduced. The market, once synonymous with bookstores and printing presses, now mainly consists of drafting material shops, hotels and religious souvenir outlets. Only a few booksellers remain, serving as faint reminders of the literary hub it once was. Several historical landmarks that once stood in the area, such as Udasi Akhara, Sangal Wala Akhara, Gianian Wala Bunga, and Hathi Khanna, have changed or vanished over time. “During the Galiara’s construction, they didn’t care about the bazaar’s legacy. The book trade is still profitable, but new generations of publishers are not taking it up. Religious literature remains in high demand. Sitting at the heart of the Sikh world, we get customers from all over. But the government destroyed our market.” said Narinderpal Singh, owner of Mehar Singh and Sons.

The roots of “Bazaar Mai Sewan’s” publishing industry can be traced to the rise of the Gurmukhi printing press. The first Punjabi press using the Gurmukhi script was set up in Ludhiana by a Christian mission in 1835. Later, renowned Punjabi writer Bhai Vir Singh established Wazir Hind Press in Amritsar in 1899. By the early 20th century, Amritsar had become the epicentre of Gurmukhi and religious literature, attracting numerous publishers to “Bazaar Mai Sewan”. Notable publishing houses included Buta Singh-Partap Singh, Chattar Singh-Jewan Singh, Singh Brothers, Khalsa Brothers, Mehar Singh and Sons, Jawahar Singh-Kirpal Singh, Ameer Bhandar, Kastoori Lal and Sons, Munshi Chirag Deen, Bhai Fakeer Singh and Sons and Ladha Singh-Kartar Singh.

One of the most famous literary figures associated with this market was Qissakar (story writer) Kishan Singh Arif (1836-1904). His father, Narain Singh, was a bookseller in the same bazaar. Arif authored several renowned works, including Qissa Shirin Farhad, Puran Bhagat, Raja Bharthari, Raja Rasaloo, Dulla Bhatti, and Kalianwali Heer.

The origins of “Bazaar Mai Sewan” date back to the era of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839). It is believed that the Maharaja dedicated the marketplace to Mai Sewan, the wife of military commander Fateh Singh Kaaliawaala. She was highly respected for her service at Durbar Sahib and was held in high esteem by the local community. However, another legend suggests that Mai Sewan was a devotee of Guru Amar Das, the third Sikh Guru. According to this version, she wished to be remembered forever, and Guru Amar Das granted her wish. Later, when Guru Arjan Dev developed the city and allocated land to settlers, a bazaar leading to Guru Ke Mehal (the residence of the Guru) was named after her.

“Once a beacon of Punjabi literary culture, “Bazaar Mai Sewan” is now a shadow of its former self. The sounds of printing presses and the presence of literary giants have vanished, leaving only scattered remnants of its glorious past,” said Gurshagar Singh, owner of Singh Brothers.