A gompa on a road less travelled

If there is one certainty in Army life, it is that is the merry-go-round of postings across this beautiful country of ours. So when my father got posted to a place called Karu, around 40 km east of Leh, l decided to make full use of the opportunity to explore the beautiful landscapes the region had to offer.

While l did visit the usual spots like Thicksey Gompa, Hemis Gompa, Shanti Stupa, etc, l yearned to explore beyond the usual touristy spots. I zeroed on a remote monastery, Likir Gompa. It was considered to be too remote and the trip wasn't for the faint hearted. The monastery lay somewhere between Leh and Kargil.

It had no direct road. On way to the gompa, the coolant of our car gave away, not able to withstand the rigours of heights above 10,000 feet and freezing temperatures. Another attempt was made with an Army gypsy, and despite hiccups we reached the virgin territory.

It was a sight to behold. White structures rising like a phoenix with snow-capped mountains in the background and no vegetation or human in sight. All the ordeal was worth this breath-taking vista. I saw an ibex for the first time in my life which ran away as soon as l got my camera out.

At the gompa, I met a lama who didn't take kindly to my intrusion. He wasn't used to seeing tourists arrive at there. But realising that l was the son of an Army officer, he made the rare exception of opening some rooms, credited to be over hundreds of years’ old, on the condition that l didn't take any photographs. Alas, the beauty of the monastery would remain etched in my memory and not in photographs.

The grand, golden Buddha statue seemed to reach the skies. The experience was ethereal and memorable beyond comparison.

I'm told that many people visit Likir Gopma now and there is much easier access. I wonder if the monks still shoo them away like all those years ago.

Gurnoor Grewal, Chandigarh