On the rail trail: Ride on Flamsbana, Norway’s iconic railway

The buzz around the Udhampur-Srinagar-Baramulla train journey and the awe-inspiring Chenab bridge led to a recall of another memorable train journey, in faraway Norway. Now, who would’ve thought trains get delayed there too? So, when our train from capital Oslo to Myrdal got held up by two hours due to some maintenance issues, it had us worried about catching the connecting Flam Railway, also known as Flamsbana, after the five-hour journey.

We had planned to stay the night in the picturesque Flam village before our ferry to Bergen, famous for the UNESCO-listed Bryggen Wharf, a historic district known for colourful wooden buildings.

Our fears were laid to rest after the train incharge arranged for us to catch the last Flamsbana to the remote village in the west coast of Norway. Attracting nearly half a million tourists annually, there is nothing ordinary about the Flam Railway. Lonely Planet has named it the world’s best train journey, while National Geographic Traveller has included the Flam Railway among the 10 best in Europe.

On the Oslo-Bergen rail line lies the small station of Myrdal, with only two tracks. As we got down at Myrdal, the chill from the nearby Hardangerjokulen glacier hit us. Soon, the majestic, old-fashioned green train arrived. As we boarded it, a courteous guide greeted us. She gave my daughter a Flamsbana colouring book. The old-style heritage carriage cars had bright red seats. Though vintage in design, these were well-padded and comfortable. The large overhead compartments had enough space to stow in the luggage. There was wooden panelling on the side walls as well as the ceiling. The windows were large and clean. And, we were ready with our cameras.

The train started its 865-metre descent to Flam that lies at the end of Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the Sognefjord, Norway’s longest fjord (a long narrow piece of sea between cliffs). Soon, the Norwegian landscape started revealing its treasures — rugged cliffs, cascading waterfalls, gushing rivers, etc. On the other side of the deep valley stood a dramatic section of the Myrdalsberget road, with its 21 hairpin bends. At one of the tunnels, the train took a curve of 180º. Passengers at the front of the train could catch a glimpse of the rear end, and vice versa.

The Flam Railway is much more than the beautiful scenery it captures. It is a marvellous feat of engineering. Our guide explained how Flamsbana is one of the steepest standard-gauge railways in the world. Nearly 80 per cent of the track runs on a gradient of 5.5 per cent. This means that the train gains (and loses) 1 metre for every 18 metres forward, an example of precise engineering, strong braking system and careful speed control. (Our very-own Kalka-Shimla Railway has a ruling gradient of nearly 3 per cent.)

The route, less than an hour long, spans 20.2 km and includes 20 tunnels — several with horseshoe curves. Since no heavy machinery was available when the construction began in 1923, 18 tunnels were built by hand. The first train ran in 1940. It was also among the first to be electrified in 1944.

The rail guide was giving us these details when the train came to a screeching halt for a five-minute break in front of the 93-metre-high Kjosfossen waterfall. Almost everyone got down from the train to click photos. At nearly 9 lakh visitors annually, the waterfall, accessible only via the Flam Railway, is Norway’s most visited natural attraction.

The waterfall gets frozen in winter. The roar of the waterfall was deafening and a fine mist hung in the air, catching the light to form fleeting rainbows — a spectacle that left us momentarily transfixed.

The waterfall is linked to the legend of Huldra — the enchanting forest spirit from Norse mythology who is believed to lure men with her beauty. We were told that often there’s a live enactment of the folklore at the waterfall with a woman in a red robe and flowing blonde hair dancing to haunting Scandinavian music. Well, it’s actually a man dressed as a woman!

Though we missed the performance, we managed to freeze the magic of the falls in our camera. The guard’s whistle broke our reverie, and we reboarded the train.

Once again the train started chugging. With every bend and curve, the scenery kept shifting. Along the route was the historic Rallar Road — also known as the Navvies’ Road. Some cyclists were biking on this road, which was once used by railway workers to transport material during construction. Today, it is one of Norway’s most scenic biking trails and is especially popular in late summer when the landscape is in full bloom. We were told that many tourists ride the train one way and return to Flam by zipline or bike down the heritage route.

The landscape changed hues: from dark green, it had now become lush green. Small farms clung to steep slopes where we could see farmers working on the fields. The winding Flam River was flowing along the train. Quaint cottages and hillside houses began appearing. Occasionally, the train slowed down, just enough for the passengers to wave at the locals — gestures that were sometimes returned with a smile or nod from a porch.

As we crossed the old wooden church, we knew we were close to our tiny village, which is inhabited by less than 400 persons.

After 45 minutes of soaking in the vistas, we arrived at the quiet Flam Railway Station, with memories we would cherish forever; and a reminder about how the most remote of places can be connected.

Fact File

• There are typically 9-10 daily departures from Myrdal during summer (May to September), and four during winter (October to April).
• For best views, sit on the right side from Flam to Myrdal, or on left from Myrdal to Flam.
• An adult one-way ticket costs NOK 570 (nearly Rs 5,000); children’s (6–17) tickets are half-priced. Dogs travel free.
• Book in advance during summer. Thursdays are usually busy due to cruise ship arrivals.
• The Railway Museum in Flam offers deeper insights into the route’s fascinating history and extreme engineering feats.

Top scenic train journeys in India

These five iconic journeys on India’s railway network rival the Flamsbana’s charm, blending breathtaking vistas with feats of engineering:

Jammu-Kashmir Rail link: The recently opened 272-km Udhampur-Srinagar-Baramulla rail link crosses the Chenab bridge, the world’s highest railway arch bridge at 359m above the riverbed. The Himalayan marvel passes through 36 tunnels amid snow-capped peaks.

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway: The 1881 UNESCO-listed toy train from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling chugs 88 km through tea gardens & misty hills, climbing from 100m to 2,200m. Batasia Loop offers panoramic views of Kanchenjunga and Eastern Himalayan range.

Konkan Railway: Popular for its food, the Mandovi Express covers 581 km from Mumbai to Goa, crossing 92 tunnels and 2,000 bridges, including the tall Panval viaduct. Monsoon waterfalls and Arabian Sea vistas make this 12-hour journey a coastal spectacle.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway: Opened to public in 1899, this UNESCO gem covers 46 km from Mettupalayam (325m) to Ooty (2,240m) through 16 tunnels and tea estates. Its 5-hour, steam-powered climb offers serene views of the Western Ghats.

Kalka-Shimla Railway: The UNESCO-listed toy train was a ‘crown jewel’ of the Indian National Railway during the British times. The 120-year-old Kalka-Shimla Express train recently got a makeover with four vistadome panoramic coaches and comfortable seating.