Prada acknowledges Kolhapuri chappals inspiration for footwear in fashion show

After a controversy triggered by the use of Kolhapuri chappals in a collection, Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has acknowledged the connection, saying the design is “inspired” by the Indian handcrafted footwear.

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In its show notes, Prada had described the footwear as “leather sandals”, with no reference to an Indian connection, evoking outrage from many in India’s fashion community as well as traditional makers of Kolhapuri chappals in western Maharashtra.

Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) president Lalit Gandhi said the chamber wrote to the fashion house after seeing the visuals, in the interest of the local artisans and the industry.

“The Kolhapuri chappal is very distinct and we want our footwear to go to newer markets. But it has to get the rightful recognition,” Gandhi told PTI on Saturday.

In the letter to Prada, MACCIA also sought exploration collaborations and fair compensation to the artisans and also an adherence to ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights.

“Kolhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts,” Gandhi’s letter said.

“While we appreciate global fashion houses drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, we are concerned that this particular design appears to have been commercialized without due acknowledgment, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities who have preserved this heritage through generations.”

“We kindly urge Prada to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design publicly, explore possibilities for collaboration or fair compensation that could benefit the artisan communities involved and consider supporting ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights,” Gandhi wrote.

“Such a gesture would not only uphold ethical standards in global fashion, but also foster a meaningful exchange between heritage craftsmanship and contemporary design. We trust that a brand of Prada’s stature and influence will take this concern in the right spirit and initiate a thoughtful response,” Gandhi’s letter to Prada said.

MACCIA also reminded Prada about the traditional handcrafted leather sandal being awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019.

In response, the Italian fashion house said that sandals featured in the men’s 2026 fashion show are still at the design stage and none of the pieces worn by models on the ramp are confirmed to be commercialised.

“We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men’s 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognize the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,” a representative from Prada said in a reply to the MACCIA .

“We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft,” Prada’s group head for corporate social responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, said in his reply.

PTI has a copy of the correspondence.

“Prada strives to pay homage and recognize the value of such specialized craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage. We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow up with the relevant Prada teams,” Bertelli’s letter to Gandi said.

Artisans from Maharashtra have cried foul after the show. They alleged violation of geographical identification (GI) rights.

BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik on Thursday led a delegation of artisans who make this traditional footwear to meet Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. They presented a letter urging him to look into the violation and preserve the product, which is a symbol of the state’s cultural heritage.