Shalgam ka saag, a forgotten winter gem

Winter has a way of slowing life down — of warming kitchens, deepening memories, and enriching flavours. And in those long, cosy evenings, every state and family brings out its own version of saag — that timeless bowl of comfort passed lovingly through generations. Making sarson da saag isn’t just cooking; it’s a quiet ritual. Back home, we even had a special variant called dandla da saag — made from young, tender mustard leaves, plucked from the very top of the plant. Those delicate leaves were handled with a respect only tradition can teach. The proportions were never written down; everyone just knew.

Saag began with the holy trinity of greens: a kilo of freshly plucked sarson, half a kilo of palak, and about 250 gm of bathua. Then came the gentle heat — a few green chillies and ginger — just enough to wake up the flavours.

I can still picture my Bebe in the kitchen, her hands moving with the ease of someone who had done this a thousand times. She would tuck the greens into a mitti ki chaati, an earthen pot that sat quietly in one corner, which gave the saag a flavour no modern utensil has ever managed to produce.

The pot would sit on a gentle flame for hours, letting the leaves soften, deepen, and weave their magic. The next step was mixing in the makki ka atta, stirring and folding it in patiently until the saag reached that perfect, hearty texture. And finally, a fragrant tadka poured over the top, bringing the whole dish to life. And while I’m telling you the story of sarson da saag, I have a confession: my favourite has always been shalgam ka saag.

These days, however, I hardly see it being cooked. And that’s a shame because turnips are a powerhouse of nutrition — sharp, slightly sweet, and delicious, even raw.

Shalgam has travelled its own path — its pickles are cherished, grilled shalgam is popular in the West, and at home, it often stands in for potatoes in winter sabzis. Shalgam matar is delightful but the true treasure is shalgam ka saag.

I recall how my Nani would return from the fields with a basket full of fresh turnips, peel them, cut them into neat little cubes, and let them simmer slowly with haldi and salt. Winter afternoons drifted by as the turnips softened. When these melted completely, she would add a bit of cornmeal and begin ghontna — the rhythmic stirring that was like a lullaby for the pot. As the turnips softened, she’d mash these patiently, mixing in a bit of makki ka atta to give the saag its heartiness. Then came the tadka — ginger and green chillies sizzling in hot ghee, sometimes tomatoes or garlic joining in. Some even add jaggery. The soul of the dish is always the same: a generous spoonful of desi ghee. Traditionally eaten with makki ki roti or madua roti, shalgam ka saag remains special to me. Every winter, when turnips return to the markets, I make sure this forgotten winter gem returns to the menu at Karigari.

Shalgam Gajar ka Saag

Ingredients

Shalgam 1 kg

Carrot 300 gm

Ginger (chopped) 10 gm

Green chilli (chopped) 20 gm

Cumin seeds 5 gm

Onion (chopped) 200 gm

Green garlic (chopped) 100 gm

Dry red chilli 5

Desi ghee 150 gm

Ginger (for tadka, chopped) 5 gm

Garlic (for tadka, chopped) 15 gm

Maize flour 100 gm

Tomatoes (chopped) 100 gm

Salt To taste

Kashmiri chilli powder 3 gm

Turmeric powder 5 gm

Method

Wash and cut the turnips and carrots into medium-size pieces. Add them to a pressure cooker with 1 cup of water, part of the turmeric, and a little salt. Cook for 3-4 whistles. After pressure releases, lightly mash the mixture

(do not make it a paste).

Heat desi ghee in a heavy pan. Add cumin seeds. When these crackle, add chopped ginger, green chilli and chopped garlic. Saute for a minute. Add chopped onions and saute till light golden. Add Kashmiri chilli powder

and turmeric. Add chopped tomatoes and cook for 3-4 minutes until the ghee separates.

Add the mashed turnip-carrot mixture to the pan. Mix well. Add the maize flour, stirring continuously to avoid lumps. Cook on low heat for 10-12 minutes to thicken the saag.

Add the chopped green garlic and cook for 5 more minutes for a fresh Punjabi flavour.

To prepare the tadka, heat the remaining ghee in a small pan. Add dry red chillies, chopped garlic and ginger. Fry until these turn light golden. Pour this hot tempering over the cooked saag.

Cover and cook on low flame for 5 minutes. Adjust salt to taste. Serve hot with makki ki roti, parantha or phulka.

— The writer is a celebrity chef