Food talk: Tagine, a slice of Morocco

Morocco is nowadays, at least for an average Indian, an almost forgotten country. It occupies a strategically important location on the north-west extreme of Africa on the belt that is called Magreb. There was a time, at the turn of the 20th century, when it triggered hostile confrontations, causing a diplomatic crisis between competing colonial powers, Great Britain and France.

It was from this rugged land, sitting atop the tract of land over the Great Sahara Desert, that a Moroccan traveller came to India in the 13th century and spent many years in the eccentric emperor Muhammad bin Tughlaq’s court. His travelogue is a valuable source of information about our country at that time.

Morocco was the playground of the rich Europeans in interwar years and a glimpse of its beauty is depicted in the cult movie ‘Casablanca’. But we shouldn’t stray from the mouth-watering street foods of Morocco that have been making us drool.

Tagine reigns supreme not only in Morocco but also neighbouring Algeria and Tunisia, also part of Magreb. These countries are populated by Arabs, who are quite distinct from Marsh Arabs and the Bedouin. Their food is influenced by Berbers, who claim to be the original inhabitants. Time to return to tagine that enjoys the status of a national dish in Morocco.

The name derives from a special fired clay vessel that has two parts — a circular plate — more a shallow bowl — and a conical cover. It can be compared to the earthen handi in which dum ki biryani is slow-cooked in its own steam.

The final product is an irresistible sweet and sour stew that can be enjoyed with rice, or, more commonly, with bread. Meat, poultry or fish are precooked, cut into small pieces that retain their succulence when they are steamed with other ingredients. The steam is trapped by the cone and drizzles as it condenses to keep the dish delicately moist. The natural texture, colour and flavours of the ingredients are retained. Spicing is minimal — the only must is ras al hanout, the Arab aromatic garam masala. Each eatery and family has its own blend.

You can very well do without the special vessel. All that is needed is a casserole with a thick bottom and a tight-fitting lid. Even a pressure cooker can recreate the magic of tagine. Truth be told, this is what our hostess, recently back from a holiday in Morocco, did when she treated us to this exotica.

Tagine

Ingredients

Boneless mutton/chicken/fish fillets                          500 gm

(Vegetarians can use paneer and soya chaap and vegetables, preferably carrots, broccoli and peas)

Tomatoes (sliced)                                                             500 gm

Dried apricots, figs and dates                                        500 gm

Raisins                                                                               100 gm

Ginger                                                                                50 gm

Garlic bulb (medium-sized)                                          1

Fennel seeds                                                                     1 tbsp

Cumin seeds                                                                     2 tsp

Coriander seeds                                                               2 tsp

Peppercorns                                                                     2 tsp

Star anise flower                                                             1

Cinnamon stick                                                               1 inch

Red chilli (chopped)                                                      2-3

Oil (olive oil preferred)                                                 2 tbsp

Salt                                                                                    To taste

Wedges of lemon or orange                                          For garnish

Method

• Trim, wash and pat dry the meat. Slice and cut thinly. Alternatively, take paneer and soya chaap and other vegetables. Slice or cut these into bite-sized pieces. Denizens of the desert had no access to fresh vegetables, but there is no reason why you should deny yourself the pleasure.
• Boil in salted water on low medium heat or under pressure for 10 minutes.
• Dry roast the whole spices and ground coarsely to make your own ras al hanout.
• Scrape, wash the ginger and cut into stripes. Don’t peel the garlic, spare cloves and crush with a flat knife.
• Spread a thin film of oil at the base of a thick-bottomed casserole or pressure cooker. Layer it with sliced tomatoes.
• On top of this spread the meats or vegetables. Sprinkle ras al hanout made at home. Distribute garlic and ginger evenly. The topmost layer should comprise dried and fresh fruits like plums, pears, apricots, if at hand. Remember, the sweet ’n’ sour in the tagine tilts more towards the sweet.
• Sprinkle a little water — half a cup or a little more, cover with a tight lid and cook on very low heat. Reduce to simmer after steam builds and cook for about an hour for all flavours to blend.
• Garnish just before serving with rice or bread.

— The writer is a food historian