Old traditions die hard in Munnar

George N Netto

OLD British traditions endow Munnar’s famed High Range Club with its distinct character and colonial aura. And these have been faithfully kept alive for posterity by its Indian tea planters.

Freemasonry, for instance, was introduced by former British tea planters as early as 1901. Lodge Heather, as the local branch was then christened, continues to be alive and kicking even today, thanks to a small band of committed Indian planters who scrupulously observe its quaint customs and rituals. They also assiduously rope in new recruits who are fascinated by the secret rites performed in camera and the old-world titles used at installation ceremonies that are invariably followed by a banquet as during the Raj.

Another lively legacy from the British era is the traditional club farewell party for retiring planters. As per the British practice, after the usual eulogies the retiree would be carried by his assistants, past and present, to the bar to the lusty singing of ‘He’s A Jolly Good Fellow’. The drinks would be on him for the rest of the evening. Then he would be ceremoniously hoisted above the bar to hang up his hat — to join a motley collection of some 80 other ‘lids’ left behind by retiring planters, their initials neatly painted on them. This practice continues unchanged.

The New Year eve party at the club is as well patronised today as it was way back in 1909 when the club was founded by the Brits. Hilarious skits continue to be staged by the Indian planters, lampooning the planting establishment — it’s perhaps the only time they can do so with impunity! 

During a skit in the 1930s, an elderly British matron wearing a wide-brimmed hat turned to the planter seated behind her and said, “If my hat’s blocking your view, I’ll gladly take it off.” “Please don’t,” he replied genially. “It’s funnier than the show!”

The annual meet between the senior and junior Indian planters — known in local parlance as ‘Peria dorais versus Sinna dorais’ — is another echo from the British era. It sees a keen contest in golf, cricket, squash, tennis et al., giving some a chance to ‘settle old scores’! Yet, camaraderie marks the get-together and dinner that traditionally follow the event.

Yet another throwback to the Raj is the club’s insistence on a formal dress code for its members. They are required to be properly shod, with a jacket and tie being mandatory on Saturday evenings and a lounge suit on formal occasions.

Perhaps the only British tradition the Indian planters ditched was ‘Kissing the bride’. Newly married British planters usually brought their brides to the club to be formally introduced to the close-knit British community. Traditionally, the men would line up to greet and kiss the bride. To conservative Indians, this was something of a culture shock — and the custom faded out with the Brits.