Puddings and more

Nivedita Choudhuri

The sublime location of the Bakewell town on the banks of the scenic Wye river means artists, photographers and visitors are drawn to it. The biggest town in Peak District National Park has mellow stone buildings, a medieval five-arched stone bridge and quaint courtyards that merit a full day of sightseeing. We set off for Bakewell in the English county of Derbyshire on a sun-drenched day. On the way, we went past the Haddon Hall — the Duke of Rutland’s seat and stately home, which has a grand Tudor Hall and Elizabethan gardens. 

The large car park in Bakewell was jam-packed with vehicles due to Bakewell Comic Con. People were crowding in a large convention hall and buying costumes and figures of their favourite superheroes and Star Wars characters. Marvel and DC heroes lurked around. ‘Deadpool’ came and pulled a face at a four-year-old while his twin sister was completely beguiled by ‘Wonder Woman’. Move over, San Diego. 

Bakewell’s riverside is a destination in itself. After flowing under the five gothic arches of a 14th century bridge, the river Wye spills over a weir before passing under a pedestrian bridge that links the car park with the town centre. The riverfront is perfect for a restful saunter while its benches provide visitors with a chance to sit and soak in the scene or to enjoy a popsicle, a picnic or a substantial portion from one of the local fish and chip shops. Whatever the choice, the vigilant ducks and swans are always on the lookout for a few crumbs!

Monday is the noisiest day of the week in Bakewell. There were rows of stalls selling local produce, quirky gifts and fresh food. The shopkeepers were welcoming and chatty. The magnificent visitor centre is housed in a 17th century market hall. On the way lies the Rutland Arms, a hotel that dates back to 1804 and which is popular with tourists who want somewhere to spend the night as they explore the nearby towns of Matlock, Buxton and the majestic Chatsworth estate. Jane Austen  is believed to have stayed at the Rutland Arms while revising Pride and Prejudice. She had written: “There is not a finer county in England than Derbyshire”.

The famous Bakewell pudding originated through a mistake by a cook at the Rutland Arms around 150 years ago. The ingredients for this lip-smacking dessert are still the hotel’s best kept secret. It so happened that a guest had ordered strawberry tarts. The cook — instead of stirring the egg mixture into the pastry — poured it over the strawberry jam. The pudding was so well received by the guest that the recipe became recognised as the Bakewell pudding. 

The Bakewell tart, a jam and sponge shortcrust pastry with almonds, is an entirely different confection. 

Built in the Georgian era, the Rutland Arms Antiques Centre is currently part of the Rutland Arms Hotel, though it used to be a stable block built by the Duke of Rutland in 1800. An airy, bright and spacious feel along the contemporary lines, antiques centre attracts established buyers and younger collectors alike. 

The tall octagonal spire of All Saints’ Church is the town’s crowning glory. Visitors making the steep climb up from the town to the hilltop parish church are immediately rewarded with an entrance porch crammed with Norman carvings, early gravestones, gargoyles and fragments of Saxon crosses so much so that it looks like an antique shop.

Then there’s the Old House Museum, an original Tudor dwelling, which was rescued from demolition in the 1950s after nearly 500 years of continuous use. A tax collector’s cottage, the house was expanded into a gentleman’s residence in the Elizabethan period. In the Industrial Revolution, it was repurposed for mill workers by inventor Richard Arkwright, who had built his third cotton spinning mill in Bakewell. The house retains surviving features from all these periods and so there’s plenty to excite architectural enthusiasts.

FACT FILE

• How to get there: Take an East Midlands train from St Pancras International station, London to Beeston (near Nottingham). From Beeston, take a train to Matlock. TP Transpeak buses run between Matlock and Bakewell else drive down to Bakewell in two-and-a-half hours.
• What to eat: Dine in style at Piedaniel’s Restaurant. Wild mushroom papillote, smoked salmon gravalax, honey glazed roast ham and quail’s egg tartlets are a staple on the menu. 
• What to buy: From antiques to garments, whisky to food, there’s just about everything in the heart of Bakewell town. If you have children, steer clear of the Bakewell Gift and Bear shop! It stocks teddy bears in all shapes and sizes and your wallet will feel much lighter if you happen to drop by.