Celebrating 350 yrs of Khalsa’s birthplace

Amarjit Thind

It’s a pilgrimage, not just a journey. 1999 was a landmark year, as is 2015, but the pilgrims’ journey to Anandpur Sahib has never seen a dip. No one bound for its 350th Foundation Day celebrations will return empty-handed too. Accompanying them home will be a certain degree of bliss (anand) that this White City exudes.

As Anandpur Sahib decks up for the big day — Prime Minister Narendra Modi will be there on June 19 — one is transported back to the Baisakhi celebrations of 300 years of the birth of the Khalsa in April 1999. To say that all roads then led to the holy city would be an understatement. It seemed that the whole of Punjab and devotees cutting across barriers wanted to be a part of the event and seek the blessings of the Gurus.

Travelling to the venue — the majestic sanctum sanctorum of Takht Keshgarh Sahib atop a hillock — was akin to giving a test of your unquestioned belief. Devotees waited for hours, being pushed and shoved, and yet were unable to get inside the portals of the gurdwara. That did not deter them, or led to any resentment. If someone did shed a tear, it was one of joy in the electrifying atmosphere.

That 16 years have made a difference is evident all around. The city and its population have grown threefold and this reflects in the scale of preparations for the event as well. Organisers claim that this will be a lifetime experience and they are going about to make it true.

Residents remember how even in 1999 the whole city was painted white — a sign of peace and serenity; only this time it’s being done on a grander scale. More than 500 workers have fanned across the city to meet the deadline of painting all the houses and business establishments by June 10. The Delhi Sikh Gurdwara Management Committee has taken upon itself the task, the cost estimates for which vary between Rs 3-5 crore.

Says JP Singh, a contractor entrusted with painting the houses in Ward 12, “My phone hasn’t stopped ringing with people requesting me to paint their house first as they fear that they will be left out before the big event.” It’s a windfall for residents like Kulwant Singh, who has constructed a new house and now wants to shift before June 19. “I am awaiting my turn and have spoken to the area contractor many times. Hopefully, my new house will get a coat very soon.” Nagar Council chief Mahinder Singh Walia says the painting work is being supervised by DSGMC members KS Batth and Tanwant Singh. More than 60 per cent of it has been completed, he claims.

Education Minister Dr DS Cheema, who is the Ropar MLA, says they have not squared the accounts and the total expenditure would only be known after the events get over. Expenses for such religious events are a matter of sewa, he adds.

Dr Cheema says the Prime Minister would attend the event and they had confirmation to this effect from the PMO. “We are in the process of receiving confirmation from other dignatories. Religious gurus and personalities too will attend the event.”

Army of volunteers

 IT graduate Beant Singh was too young to offer his services in 1999, but did not want to miss out this time. “I really wanted to volunteer to make the event memorable and here I am,” he says. Beant and a dozen-odd friends guide visitors and help the elderly and disabled to the numerous inns dotting the city. This sewa is invaluable since several people from across the country visiting the gurdwara en route to the shrines in Himachal Pradesh, Jammu or beyond cannot read or speak Punjabi.

Youngsters like Sukhwinder Singh, born after 1999, are no less eager to be a part. “I and my friends perform sewa in the langar (community kitchen) and guide the elderly and those from other states to various inns,” he says proudly.

Religious fervour not only draws the devout to travel great distances, but also gives a lift to commerce. Hundreds of shopkeepers in and around the main complex are candid that they are fortunate to witness another great milestone. Says one of them, Ram Singh, “Though the event is many days away, the rush is keeping us on our toes. Some of us are still enjoying the fruits of 1999. We can’t even guess how much business to expect.”  

There’s a steady flow of Muslims this time. Shopkeepers say they were pleasantly surprised to receive requests for literature and items to be offered at the gurdwara. “I was told by one of the families that they were ardent followers of the first Sikh Master, Guru Nanak, and wanted to be early birds,” says a shopkeeper.

Preparing for the gathering

Langar is an integral part of any Sikh event. Those who travelled to the city in 1999 will remember being virtually whittled down by entreaties by volunteers to partake of community food. This time will be no different with 1,300 requests for langars and counting. Nihangs or soldiers of Guru ki Fauj will provide the martial pomp and pageantry to the event. They will take out a procession, display their skills in horse riding and tent pegging and perform daredevil feats. Baba Sewa Singh of Gurdwara Shaheedan says all chiefs of the Nihang sects and their followers from Punjab and Nanded in Maharashtra are expected to be present.

While the five forts in the city are being given a facelift, an added attraction will be the place where the four Sahibzadas of Guru Gobind Singh were born, which is being beautified with marble and intricate filigree work by artisans from Agra and Makrana. The kar sewa workers have also stumbled upon an ancient baoli while removing the debris in this complex, which also houses the thara (platform) where the Guru heard the plight of Kashmiri Pandits.

An interesting aspect is that a majority of workers engaged in this task are Muslims. They are happy to be a part of the event and are appreciative of the legendary hospitality of Punjabis. For devotees and visitors who were not here in 1999, the 70 feet tall Nishan-e-Khalsa (symbol of Khalsa order), weighing over 2,700 kg, would be a huge attraction along with the Virasat-e- Khalsa as they discover how unique is the Anandpur Sahib experience. One that will stay with them.

Keeping the holy city clean a matter of pride, but environment issues remain  

• In the onward march of development, the first casualty is always the environment and in this case the scenic hillocks. Nestled among the lower Shivaliks, Anandpur Sahib was chosen for its quaint charm and the fact that the Sutlej was just 3 km away and the Charan Ganga flowed adjacent to the new city. Today, the latter has dried up and is used for holding fairs and martial events during religious days of the faith. And hillocks have been razed to make way for new colonies, marring the charm of the place.
• The road network was upgraded in 1999 and the residents take great pride in keeping the town clean commensurate with its exalted status as the birthplace of the Khalsa. However, many devotees feel that Anandpur Sahib has not got its due, in line with its standing in the annals of Sikh history. On the religious tourism circuit, it lacks direct connectivity to other religious landmarks in the state, though a train has recently been started linking it with Amritsar.