Of lemon groves & blue sea

Saachi Dhillon

Cragged cliffs, lemon trees, villas and shimmering sea greeted us on a sunny autumn afternoon. We cruised down the Amalfi coast, from Sorrento, all the way to Amalfi. Proseccos (Italian white wine) in hand, we soaked up the late afternoon Mediterranean sun as the sea sprayed us with its salty waters. Warm hues of picturesque landscape, bright domes and houses dotted all over the mountainside, all the way down to the cobalt blue sea was fascinating. The natural beauty of the area seemed like a painting that had come alive.

Located in southern Italy, the Amalfi coast is a 40-km stretch of the coastline on the northern coast of the Salerno Gulf on the Tyrrhenian Sea, in the Campania region. It stretches from Punta Campanella, along the south of the Sorrento peninsula to Vietri sul Mare. It has been a popular tourist spot since the 1920s. The Amalfi Coast earned the Unesco World Heritage Site status in 1997. 

Amalfi, the largest town on the Amalfi coast is an excellent starting point. Stroll around this quaint town through a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and steep stairways; sip on limoncello and gorge on fresh seafood at one of the many restaurants. 

With everything ‘lemon’ inspired here, do try the lemon tiramisu at Locanda del Marinaio ristorante. Spend your days basking in the sun on the tiny scrap of pebble beach or simply gape at the dreamy sea views. You can catch spectacular sunsets especially from a height, as the skies turn from orange to pink engulfing the entire town in its hues. The 9th century Amalfi Cathedral and Museum of Paper are worth a visit too. 

Take an open top sightseeing bus to Ravello for spectacular views of Amalfi and the Sorrentine peninsula. The short journey, full of twisty mountain roads, lemon groves and vineyards, is made even more enjoyable with the bus’ audio guide about the region. Perched at 350 m above the sea level, the medieval village of Ravello offers breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. Its cobblestone pathways, fragrant gardens and gothic architecture have been charming writers, musicians and artists since centuries. Away from the hubbub of the coastal towns, Ravello is perfect for those looking for a quiet getaway. The 11th century Ravello Cathedral and Villa Rufolo are popular attractions here. 

Scala, the oldest village on the Amalfi coast, dating back to fourth century, is a short ride away. Largely off the tourist trail, Scala offers quiet, incredible views overlooking Ravello in the valley and the Salerno coastline. Located on a rocky hill at approximately 400 metres above sea level, it offers even better views than Ravello. The 12th century Duomo of San Lorenzo dominates the main square. There are some great hiking trails through dense forests leading higher up the mountains, where traces of the village’s fascinating medieval history can be found.

The most illustrious town on the coast is Positano. You can wander through a maze of stairways leading down the mountain all the way to its sandy beach. Sit by the sea and listen to sound of the waves crashing against the shore. Known for linen goods and handmade leather sandals, this upscale town boasts of chic boutiques, high end cafes and even a helipad! Widely known for its picture postcard views, Positano is the poster town for Amalfi coast across travel websites.

Savour your time here, and do stop and smell the lemons. 

Fact file

Get around: The best way to explore this area is by road. You can rent a car or a Vespa if you are adventurous enough to drive on a narrow road full of hairpin bends and a straight drop to the sea. The SITA bus is a reliable mode of transport and takes you from one town to the next at regular intervals. During high season, the bus service is generally overcrowded and there are long waiting queues. 

When to visit: The best time to visit is during the shoulder season, in early summer and autumn.