The old-world charmer

Swati Rai

The melting pot of Anupama’s eclectic inspirations creates an inspiring and cultural collection of fetichistic fashion, attaching us to the roots of India and at the same time making us international urban nomads. Clothes for our own century”, said Lidewij Edelkoort, one of world’s renowned and leading trend forecaster, in praise of Anupama Dayal. Launched in 2004, brand Anupamaa received an overwhelming response in Paris, and was also showcased at the prestigious Rose-mount Australia Fashion Week. In 2007, she participated in the Australian Fashion Week in Sydney. The ace designer is now out with her latest collection Madhumalati, launched recently at the India Beach Fashion Week 2016, and it bowled over fashion lovers and critics alike.

Tell us about your design philosophy?

It is the revival of the ancient, almost-forgotten hand-printing and needle-craft techniques of India. My style is vintage-meets-bold and western. The print stories are often eclectic and the philosophy is organic. One of my favourite techniques is the hand-printing technique using wooden blocks. The wooden blocks are carved only after I submit my hand-drawn sketches and inspirations. The blocks are then dipped into dyes and placed on pure fabrics like silk and cotton.

The mixing of the dye is a secret, which is closely guarded by the master printer. This art is handed down from one generation to another. The craft of mixing and cooking colours is the most crucial part of the process of printing in Anupamaa. The fabric is then coated with clay, rolled with parchment and steamed in an oven for a few hours. Post steaming, we wait for a day of crackling sunlight to wash the fabric. The sunlight oxidises the colours and makes them shine.

What in your opinion are the dominant fashion trends of the decade?

Fashion is a fast-changing world and trends are always evolving and making a comeback. However, if I had to pick trends, which I think will remain timeless are florals, stripes and dots. These are classic trends, which will always stay in fashion.

At a time when the market gets flooded with new talent every second day, how do you reinvent yourself? Don’t you feel insecure?

With the boom in the fashion industry and the market welcoming new talent, it is important that one must remain true to ones aesthetics and innovate constantly. I don't suffer from insecurities. It’s important to stay focused. I am inspired by everything I see on a daily basis and am always searching for interesting stuff, which in turn helps me find inspiration for my collections.

Online designer retail space is the ‘next big thing’. What is your opinion about the same?

I love the fact that through my designs I can make women feel beautiful and confident about themselves. In such competitive environment, I try not to stress about finances. As for selling clothes online, it is a great idea, which connects designers to masses.

What would you say is signature Anupama Dayal style in terms of colours, cut and sensibility?

The brand 'Anupamaa' is a philosophy of organic designs, craft and materials that are used in every collection. I love using bright hues and try to incorporate floral designs in my work.

What does the future AD collection look like?

It looks like this era’s woman — Happy, fit, travelling across the world in high spirits!

Runaway success

Anupamaa has been on the racks of iconic Anthropologie store since 2011, which means it makes its presence felt around the world. Awarded the designer of the year by a leading fashion magazine in 2011, Anupama is not just a force to reckon in the Indian market, but also in the West. The legendary Australian fashion retailer, Belinda Seper has been quoted as saying with Anupamaa, “You get the soul of India.”