Lick it up

Pushpesh Pant 

Global warming and climate change have played havoc with cycle of seasons. One can’t even tell with certainty when winter ends and summer steps in. Spring passes unnoticed. Amid all this, we miss seasonal delicacies the most — not only fruits and vegetables but traditional recipes that celebrated seasons too.

A vegetable vendor recently tried to tempt us into buying exorbitantly priced unripe green mangoes and, to overcome our initial reluctance, continued with seductive soft selling. “Take a small one at least to make ambiya chutney. It adds magic to the dhaniya-pudina chutney.” We ended up buying the almost unaffordable souring agent, but this encounter let loose a tide of memories.

Chutney, the word, suggests licking, something that just tickles the tongue playfully, preparing the palate for what is to follow. It adds some of the basic tastes that may be missing in the main course dishes and accompaniments. It’s well known that Indian gastronomy revolves round six basic rasas that blend therapeutics with aesthetics.

Chutney may be included in the meal as an aperitif or digestive or just a taste enhancer. However, in summers, it serves another purpose too. When the body is depleted of salts and dehydration threatens life, it substitutes for packaged ORH therapy. An old chutney traditionally ground was indeed called chutney rahat jaan in Delhi. 

The diversity of our land is reflected in the myriad chutneys here. The Udipi eateries have popularised the tempered coconut chutney served with dosa, vada, idli, etc. It is usually paired with a red chutney blending roasted tomatoes and onions. In Bengal, the tonk is sweeter than it is sour and is enriched with raisins and, at times, dried dates. In the Hindi heartland, besides the green chutney (prepared by dhaniya, pudina, hari mirch and ambiya), the sweet and sour sonth rules the roost. Chaat is unimaginable without it. As the name indicates, dried ginger is an essential ingredient supplemented with dried dates, sultanas and nuts. For souring, either tamarind or dried unripe mango may be used.

Chutneys in Kashmir are very different. Called chetin, these are prepared with radish, walnuts and dahi. In arid zones, it is red chillies with garlic and onion that suffice. Of course, a pinch of salt or black rock salt lifts most chutneys. In the hills of Uttarakhand, bhang chutney is greatly relished. Though prepared from hemp seeds, it is absolutely non-intoxicating. In Nepal and Northeastern states of India, sesame seed chutney is popular. 

So enamoured were the British with the chutney that they devised innovative ways of consuming it. Chutney-draped baby potatoes and chutney sandwiches became staples in clubs and army messes. Reviving nostalgia of the Raj, a fine dining restaurant in London was named Chutney Mary!

There are many factory-made chutneys like Navratan mango or apple/plum or pineapple that occupy the zone between sauce and pickle. However, purists insist that nothing can match the taste of a homemade chutney ground on stone or pounded in mortar/pestle. Electric blenders and mixers do take the drudgery out of chutney making, but the chore of cleaning up small jars is no less a bother. This has resulted in chutneys slowly vanishing from our plates. We only lick it when eating out.

Bhang ki chutney

Ingredients

50 g hemp seeds

1 tbsp dried pomegranate seeds

1 tsp sugar

1 green chilli (deseeded)

Salt to taste 

Method

Grind all ingredients to a smooth paste, preferably on grinding stone. If dried pomegranate seeds aren’t readily available, you may use lemon juice instead. 

Doon Chetin

Ingredients

1/2 cup walnut kernels (boiled)

1 cup hung yogurt

1 green chilli (deseeded)

1/2 tsp royal cumin seeds

1/2 tsp lemon juice (optional)

Salt to taste

A sprig of fresh mint for garnish

Method

Grind all ingredients to a smooth paste. Blend well and enjoy!