Crossing Zojila experience of a lifetime

Lt Gen Harwant Singh (Retd)

As Union minister Nitin Gadkari launched work on the tunnel across the Zojila, my own crossing of this pass at the height of winter came to mind. Consequent to the Chinese invasion of Ladakh in 1962, troops in this sector were substantially increased and the need to lay out transit camps, recovery and military police posts as well as movement control setup along this route arose.

I was then with 31 Communication Zone sub-area in Srinagar and was tasked to site the units/detachments along this route. I set out on this task in March 1963. At Ghund, we had to shed our transport because road beyond was under snow cover. Chocky Menon (14 Horse), son of VP Menon, who had much to do with the amalgamation of Indian states, insisted on accompanying me. Menon had earlier left the Army and joined Air India and during the war decided to rejoin the Army, and had himself posted to us in the rank of Captain. Our party consisted of me, Menon, a sahayak, a nursing assistant and three Ladakhi porters.

After siting the transit camp at Sonamarg, we moved to the Forest Rest House at Baltal. Nehru had spent his honeymoon here and had made some observations in the visitor's book. Because of cloudy weather, we were stuck at Baltal for three days, as the porters wanted to cross Zojila only on a clear night. Zojila — meaning ‘treacherous’ — is a pass that is hit by avalanches from either side, with snow piling up to 100 ft at its base.

Menon insisted on carrying a carbine and dozen magazines, because he was convinced that Pakistan would have come to know of his move on this route and as such would lay an ambush! On the fourth night, we set out to cross the pass. Menon was having problem climbing and it took him nearly six hrs to get to the pass. While the porters, the sahayak and the nursing assistant carried on, I had to stay back to be with Menon. The sun was up and Menon would, now and then, stop to take pictures. We narrowly missed an avalanche. Since it was getting late and the chances of avalanches were increasing, I carried his stuff and told him to slowly keep moving while I moved ahead with a view to sending back two porters with tea, etc., to help Menon.

I started moving fast and soon got dehydrated. I knew that in such a condition, sitting down could make me fall asleep and that could be disastrous. So I moved on. As Ghumri, our night halt, came in view, I put down the load. The porters were reluctant to go back, so I had to give them Rs 10 each for the task.

We spent the night at a telephone operator’s small hut. Our party, three Ladakhis who were coming from Leh, the operator and four dogs cramped into the hut for the night.

Crossing Zojila during winter is an experience of a lifetime. With this tunnel, perhaps no one will get a chance to live through this experience.

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